Day 4 of our Christmas Countdown, and we are going OTT with some very cool, exceptional and of course, over-the-top timepieces!
Sometimes, being plain or under the radar is not enough. Sometimes you want a watch on your wrist that is way more than you need, or want – a little OTT. And why not, when you are spending considerable amounts of money on a statement piece, you want it to be noticed, or at the very least, have some ultra cool, and technical complications that make it stand out from the crowd! Our team has picked 10 Over The Top watches that are sure to do jut that!
Mario’s Way Over The Top Picks
HAUTLENCE Retrovision ’85
If you read my ICYMI: Watches & Wonders 2025 article, you’ll already know why this is on the list. But allow me to reintroduce the incredible Hautlence Retrovision ’85.
A rising trend in the modern watch world has been enthusiasts getting hung up on remastering older timepieces. While some legacy brands have acquiesced to this demand, Hautlence was only born in 2004. They didn’t have the deep, storied archives to draw on, nor did they really want to rely on sepia-toned nostalgia to guide their watchmaking.
As a playful nod to the trend, they released the Retrovision ’47, a watch designed to look exactly like a 1940s/50s-era Bakelite radio. Not content to stop there, they unveiled the Retrovision ’85 at Watches and Wonders this year. Instead of producing a watch that simply looked like a product of its era, they made it function that way, too. Drawing inspiration from childhood action figures and toys, the Hautlence Retrovision ’85 transforms into a robot!
You can either wear it as a watch or keep it on your desk as a mini clock, but either way, it’s one hell of a conversation starter. Hautlence have also gone out of its way to ensure it carries its signature horological excellence, with double wandering hours and minutes discs, as well as a flying tourbillon.
International RRP: Upon Request
Availability: Limited to 8 pieces. Visit Hautlence.com for more information.
MB&F HM11 Art Deco
Another OTT watch I’ve been harping on about for the better part of a year is the MB&F HM11 series. Unsurprisingly, given that I practically drool at the chance to cover whatever mad science experiment comes out of the mind of Max Büsser and his friends.
The HM11 is by far one of my favourite collections from the brand. Released at Dubai Watch Week 2023, the originals completely blew my mind with how technically and aesthetically unique they were. Based on a conceptual house inspired by the height of Space Age architecture, the entire watch rotates and winds across three distinct faces. At the centre, a flying tourbillon forms the heart of the piece.
This year, MB&F took the HM11 and gave it a brilliant new design. Inspired by the Art Deco movement, the watch — if you can even call it that, at this point — has been redesigned with sharp, monolithic features. Complete with an in-house movement and an extraordinary amount of precise engineering, the HM11 Art Deco proves once again that MB&F are unmatched when it comes to crafting maximalist mechanical masterpieces.
International RRP: Upon Request
Availability: Limited to 10 pieces. See MBandF.com for more information.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph AIR
A brand I honestly didn’t expect to find myself putting on here is TAG Heuer. I’ve typically found that some of the best, most extravagant timepieces are produced by independent brands, as they have the creative freedom to go all out. But even though TAG Heuer is owned by fashion giant LVMH, that hasn’t stopped them from releasing spectacular pieces in line with their innovative spirit.
It’s part of the major paradigm shift the Swiss brand has undertaken over the past couple of years. The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph AIR, the latest in a long line of significant developments, showcases the true capabilities of the brand. Enhancing the already-iconic Monaco silhouette is no easy task, but the way TAG Heuer’s craftsmen have done so is nothing short of admirable.
Through a combination of hyper-modern materials and futuristic techniques like Selective Laser Melting (SLM), the Monaco AIR is one of the most complex timepieces the brand has ever made. Though it uses the highly specialised TH81-00 movement, produced for them by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, it weighs a mere 85 grams thanks to its construction. It’s a watch that stands as a testament to TAG Heuer’s innovation without compromise and promises that the brand still has plenty of fire left in the tank.
Australian RRP: A$300,000
Availability: Limited to 30 numbered references. Visit TagHeuer.com.au for more information.
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.
But all this talk of robots with Hautlence got me thinking. If you can’t get your hands on a full-on robot watch, what’s the next best thing? Then it occurred to me: what if you put a robot inside the watch? I know this new piece from the resurrected Czapek is limited to just 77 examples, but still, your chances are at least a little better.
While the Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R might be a limited edition, it arguably has a far more justifiable reason for its design inspiration. For context, the word ‘robot’ was coined in the famous 1920 play Rossumovi Univerzální Roboti (Rossum’s Universal Robots) by renowned Czech playwright Karel Čapek (pronounced ‘Chah-pek’, like Czapek, but no relation). Given that Czapek, now a Swiss-based brand, was born in what is now Czechia, it makes perfect sense that they’d look back and pay tribute to one of the country’s most important contributions to sci-fi culture.
And pay tribute, they certainly did. The Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R is a skeletonised, monopusher, rattrapante chronograph, with its functions signalled by the robot’s eyes at 12 o’clock. Even the dial text, including the chronograph scales and minute track, isn’t human in origin, instead drawing inspiration from the Yautja language from Predator. If that’s not badass, I don’t know what is.
International RRP: CHF 58,000
Availability: Limited to 77 pieces. Visit Czapek.com for more information.
Matt’s Picks That May Be A Little Excessive
Roger Dubuis Knights Of The Round Table – The Enchanter Merlin
Roger Dubuis has made a name for itself by making mostly over-the-top watches. So much so that their aesthetics overshadow the actual amazing technical watchmaking and finishing that the brand does. Which is a bit of a shame, as I feel the two can coexist together. One of the great models that has made a name for itself in recent years is Roger Dubuis’ Knights of the Round Table collection. These pieces are like miniature dioramas on the wrist and feature exactly what the name says: the round table from King Arthur’s Court with all 12 knights sitting in their spots at the table.
This model, which is whimsically called The Enchanter Merlin, is no exception as it is crafted in a 45mm pink gold case and on the dial itself, the Knights of the Round Table are in place next to each hour marker – Each micro-sculpted and is around 6mm in height. The “table” is made from 56 blocks that are a combination of pink gold, glass, enamel, and white gold set with hexagonal cut diamonds. In between these, crytallium hexagons shimmer in the light.
This is pure watchmaking and storytelling at its best, and is what I would call an OTT piece, not just in looks and design, but in watchmaking. Inside is the RD821 Monobalancier movement, which is hand-finished according to the traditional criteria of the Poinçon de Genève. The watch is also limited to 28 pieces, so you are not going to see many of these on wrists, which makes it even more special!
International RRP: POA
Availability: Limited to 28 pieces and boutique exclusive. Head to your local Roger Dubuis boutique or online at RogerDubuis.com for more information.
L. Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps
I had the pleasure of seeing the new pieces from L.Leroy (Pronounced Le-wa phonetically speaking) at Geneva Watch Days this year. This is an old brand being brought back to life by the parent company of Perrelet. And they are not mucking around with three minute repeater watches in red gold, platinum, and titanium – all with a flying tourbillon to top it off – the Osmior Bal du Temps.
Housed in a 43mm case x 13.8mm thick, these are not the daintiest of watches, but then again, when you are spending in the multiple hundreds of thousands of dollars (Price is POA BTW), you want people to notice – this is an OTT watch list after all! And in this case, they can hear it as well as see it.
The hand-wound movement gives you 90 hours of power reserve, and this is a single-hand watch too, so you are also getting something a little more unique in that sense. This is a watch for connoisseurs and for those who have some deep pockets that want an over-the-top watch that is anything but hyped.
International Recommended Retail Price: Price On Request.
Availability: Limited production. Head to montres-leroy.com for more information
Greubel Forsey QP Balancier
Can you even have an OTT Buying Guide without including Greubel Forsey? It is a brand that is on my grail list as they make some sensational watches and have taken an approach to watchmaking in this modern era that very few have. It doesn’t matter what piece from Greubel Forsey you have on your wrist, it will be sure to turn heads, no matter where you go. Those who are really into their watches will know exactly what they are looking at when they see it, and even if you don’t, you know it’s something special.
However, this year, Greubel Forsey brought out a stunning QP Balancier, which we had the good fortune of seeing and trying out at Geneva Watch Days this year, and let me tell you it is a piece that will just blow you away! A perpetual Calendar that is operated via the crown only, and it arranges its calendar indications in a multi-level gold dial, which lays out all the information easily and intuitively, so you can see what you need to at a glance.
The case is made from white gold, so it gives the watch enough heft to know that you are wearing something luxurious and expensive; that’s not to say you wouldn’t already, given the fact that this is a Greubel Forsey after all. It also has the 30° inclined balance wheel, which has become an iconic dial element and helps to offset the effects of gravity, similar to a tourbillon. If I win Powerball, this is one piece I’ll be trying my hardest to get, is the 22 pieces are sold out already!
International Recommended Retail Price: POA
Availability: Limited to 22 pieces. Visit GreubelForsey.com for more information
Sam’s OTT Picks To Turn Heads
Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication High Jewellery ‘Moon Dust’
Nothing screams “wow factor” quite like a grand complication timepiece. Vacheron Constantin has been on an incredible run lately, unveiling one groundbreaking creation after another, and rightly so, as the brand celebrates its 270th anniversary this year. One watch that truly embodies their legacy in high complications (which you can read about here!) is the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication High Jewellery ‘Moon Dust’. This masterpiece features 16 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, sidereal time, and even a Northern Hemisphere celestial chart displayed on the caseback.
If this wasn’t enough, the timepiece also falls into the brand’s high-jewellery category, with nearly 10 carats of baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 365 stones) set across the bezel and lugs. With something as exquisite as this, Vacheron has filled the remaining blank canvas of the case with hand-engraved astronomical motifs, requiring around 180 hours of engraving per watch.
Vacheron’s Les Cabinotiers department recently unveiled a number of timepieces honouring 270 years of astronomy, most of which are high complications. They truly are in a league of their own here, showcasing craftsmanship at a level few manufacturers can match. It’s the kind of creation that reminds you exactly why Vacheron Constantin sits among the very peak of haute horlogerie.
International Recommended Retail Price: POA
Availability: Visit Vacheron-Constantin for more information
Richard Mille 17-02 Tourbillon
I was initially torn between choosing the Richard Mille RM 75-01 or the RM 17-02 for this article. Both fit the “over the top” theme perfectly, but since I’ve already featured the RM 75-02 in a previous high-horology piece, it felt right to give the stunning RM 17-02 its time in the spotlight. Richard Mille offered the RM 17-02 in a variety of variants, with the more recent ones being Grade 5 titanium or white ceramic.
Both are undeniably striking, with the black Grade 5 titanium model showcasing a colourful artistic dial, while the white ceramic version takes a more understated approach, letting the case itself command the attention. It’s hard to pick between the two, as each commands attention in its own way. The skeletonised movement in both models has been crafted with artistic flair — in true Richard Mille fashion.
The bridges are treated in blue PVD and 5N gold, while the baseplate for the tourbillon and fast-rotating barrel is machined from Grade 5 titanium with a black PVD finish. The mechanical elements are proudly on display, from the gear train and tourbillon to the mainspring barrel and power reserve indicator. This is a Richard Mille that balances mechanical ingenuity with artistic beauty, creating a timepiece that steals the spotlight no matter what you wear it with.
International Recommended Retail Price: POA
Availability: Visit RichardMille.com for more information
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance D’une Montre 3
One of my favourite releases from Geneva Watch Days 2025 is the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance D’une Montre 3. Why do I love this watch? Because it’s a timepiece that blends sheer technical brilliance with exceptional craftsmanship. A project six years in the making, the Naissance D’une Montre 3 brings near-forgotten traditional watchmaking techniques back to life in their purest form.
The piece stays true to Ferdinand Berthoud’s principles of rejecting modern industrial production, meaning no CNC, wire-erosion, LIGA or semi-automated methods. Every component is crafted entirely by hand using traditional tools. To put its scale into perspective, over 80 Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard artisans and specialists contributed to bringing this watch to life.
Aside from the exceptional craftsmanship, what makes this an “over-the-top” watch for me is the sheer technicality on display. How many timepieces can you name that feature a fusée-and-chain transmission system? This mechanism equalises the inconsistent power delivery from the mainspring barrel, providing a constant and steady flow of energy that significantly improves accuracy.
Another impressive feat is that the movement is COSC-certified. This timepiece stands as a true testament to how watchmaking once was, incorporating mechanics that many modern brands have abandoned due to the difficulty in achieving high precision. For me, it’s the perfect reminder that high horology can still leave you in awe.