Longines has a rich history with high-frequency movements, and the new Ultra-Chron Classic is both a testament and nod to this.
Longines is a bit of a dark horse for me, and I would say, many collectors as well. While the brand sits in the mid-tier of the Swatch Group, it has a remarkable history of innovation and firsts. Many of which are not well known outside of those brand aficionados. One of those firsts is the development of a high-frequency movement, which Longines all the way back in 1910, filed its first patent for a pocket chronograph stopwatch capable of measuring 1/10th of a second, featuring a high-frequency movement beating 10 times a second (5 Hz).
In 1959, another high-frequency first, when Longines produced the mechanical movement calibre 360 in a rectangular shape – the first high-frequency wristwatch. This led to the First self-winding high-frequency wristwatch produced in high volumes in 1967: The Ultra-Chron ref. 7827 with a self-winding Longines high-frequency calibre 431, including patented dry lubrication and instantaneously jumping date.
And now, almost six decades after the first Ultra-Chron hit wrists in 1967, the high-frequency pioneer returns with upgraded construction, a period-faithful case, and a movement with the sort of performance that makes most vintage purists pause and nod in appreciation. And for those purists, a 37mm variant and for those with more modern tastes, a 40mm model, both at 10.95mm thick.
Vintage Lines, Contemporary Wearing Comfort
With two size variants on offer, as mentioned, a 40mm and 37mm case diameter each comes with the option of a black leather strap and pin buckle, giving it a very vintage ’60s feel. Alternatively, a steel bracelet with a distinctive groove pattern, inspired by the original 1967 model, complete with alternating brushed and polished links and a micro-adjustable twin-folding clasp, is on offer. Either way, each takes that vintage feel all the way.
Each features a retro-style case with clean lines and angular lugs. However, the dial is a standout here: a domed silver sunray finish that plays with the light much like mid-century sport watches did, paired with applied polished indexes and hands that maintain the 1967 design language. Even the date window at 3 o’clock pays tribute to the era — complete with vintage typography.
High-Beat Still Matters
Inside each model is the Longines calibre L836.6 – a high-beat automatic movement introduced in 2022 and now the backbone of the modern Ultra-Chron series. It runs at the same 5 Hz rate as its historic predecessor, offering a 52-hour power reserve and critically, a silicon balance spring paired with advanced anti-magnetic materials that deliver resistance 10× above ISO 764 standards. It is the perfect old-school watch for a modern lifestyle.
However, the Longines Ultra-Chron is set apart from others with its higher level of certification. Unlike many “chronometer-rated” movements that are tested uncased, the Ultra-Chron Classic undergoes full watch chronometer certification from the Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève, represented by the TIMELAB foundation. Over 15 days, the complete assembled watch is tested across multiple temperatures and positions to the ISO 3159 standard.
Many brands have moved away from high-beat movements due to complexity, lubrication demands, and service considerations. Not to mention the balancing act between power and precision. High-frequency movements are more accurate thanks to the high-beat rate, but with this, power reserve is sacrificed. The L836.6 balances this well, with the 52-hour power reserve, but I will say, with modern technology, I felt this could have been stretched a little, but I understand the constraints, thanks to the smaller 37mm size and thickness of less than 11mm. In watchmaking, space does matter with every little aspect of the movement.
Initial Thoughts
The Longines Ultra-Chron exemplifies what Longines is about. Making well-made watches that tap into its vast heritage and calibres, and making them for the modern watch wearer and at a price that won’t break the bank. In some ways, they edge towards the “quiet luxury” side of watches, and perhaps that is why they are one of the top ten (number 7 in fact, the last two years running) Swiss watch brands by revenue in the world.
The Longines Ultra-Chron adds to the heritage collection in a meaningful way, piggybacking off the Ultra-Chron Carbon diver released late last year and the original Ultra-Chron diver release in 2022. I feel those who want a no-fuss, accurate watch that straddles dress and sports, then the new Ultra-Chron Classic will be right up their alley. It will also tick the boxes of those vintage enthusiasts too, and all for A$6,000 or less.
References:
- 37mm on Steel: L2.537.4.72.6
- 37mm on Leather: L2.537.4.72.2
- 40mm on Steel: L2.937.4.72.6
- 40mm on Leather: L2.937.4.72.2
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 37mm x 44.6mm lug-to-lug/40mm x 47.2mm lug-to-lug x 10.95mm thick each
- Case Material: Stainless steel with a mix of polished and satin-brushed surfaces.
- Dial: Domed, sunray silver with original Ultra-Chron logo applied. Applied silver-polished indexes, rhodium-plated hands
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Water Resistance: 50m (5 Bar)
- Movement: Calibre L836.6 High-frequency (5Hz) self-winding mechanical movement, chronometer certified
- Power reserve: 52 hours operating at 5Hz (36,000 VpH)
- Bracelet/Strap: Choice of stainless steel bracelet with oval links, double safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism with micro-adjustment or a black alligator leather strap with steel pin-buckle