Cartier expands its iconic Santos de Cartier line with a new titanium model and a striking black-dial variant featuring fluorescent Super-LumiNova. Both updates mark a refined step forward for the collection, enhancing wearability and everyday practicality.
The Cartier Santos de Cartier is arguably one of the most popular timepieces in the world of watchmaking. When the original model was first developed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, it was a symbol of daring design, as square-faced timepieces were virtually unheard of at the time. While most watches of the era featured traditional round cases, the Santos broke convention with a stunning proportionate silhouette that featured exposed screws.
Over the years, the watch gained immense popularity, as it evolved from a functional pilot’s tool into a timeless symbol of elegance. The early versions of the Santos de Cartier were presented in gold and steel, while also featuring skeletonised movements for a more contemporary and daring aesthetic look. Traditionally, the Santos de Cartier has been crafted in steel, gold, or elegant two-tone variations, with more recent interpretations introducing materials such as ADLC-coated steel for a “blacked out” look.
Outside of these materials, Cartier hasn’t really ventured too far into the unknown, and honestly, why would they? When you have such an iconic design that’s been near-perfect for over a century, there’s little reason to reinvent or change anything around. But, in saying that, every now and then, a subtle shift can make a big difference. Sometimes, evolution doesn’t mean changing the DNA of a watch, but more about refining it.
This latest introduction of titanium isn’t about changing what’s already working well for this model, but rather enhancing it. One of the drawbacks of having steel or gold on the Cartier Santos de Cartier was the polished bezel, which would be susceptible to fingerprints and is more scratch-prone. By now integrating titanium into the collection, it aims to reduce these issues, while also adding a new layer of versatility and modern appeal, making the Santos de Cartier even more wearable for those who appreciate lightness and durability.
Alongside this new titanium release is a steel black dial variant, with fluorescent SuperLumi-Nova green hour indices and hands. This is the first time the Santos de Cartier gets the lume treatment, a subtle yet impactful update that enhances the everyday practicality of this watch. The result is a watch that feels distinctly more versatile, with the luminous green glow adding a sporty edge to what has traditionally been a refined and elegant timepiece.
Case Design
The iconic silhouette of the Santos de Cartier trades elegance and luxury to now the bead-blasted matte finish of the titanium. Only the “large” version is currently being presented in titanium, with the case measuring 39.8mm x 9.38mm thick. Despite the name, this is certainly not a large watch; in fact, it wears beautifully even on slimmer wrists like mine (16cm), making it one of those rare timepieces that feels substantial without ever feeling bulky.
What titanium brings to the mix now makes this watch even more wearable. As mentioned earlier, the titanium features a fully bead-blasted matte case, which is the first time on a Santos de Cartier. This finish gives the watch a more “industrial” tool-like character, one where it tells the wearer, “go ahead, I can take a hit”. And rightfully so as well, with the full titanium treatment making the Santos de Cartier 43% lighter and harder than steel, improving both the comfort and durability without compromising that unmistakable Santos look.
Dial Design
To offer a contrasting aesthetic against the matte grey case, the dial is presented with a crisp white finish, with bold black indices. The steel model is presented with the opposite aesthetic, a black dial with contrasting white indices (that are now filled with SuperLumi-Nova!). The black dial also has different finishes, with a vertical satin finish on the inside square of the railway minute track, with the outer part done in a sunray finish.
Cartier’s signature design is of course retained here, with the indices in Roman numerals, the railroad style minute track neatly tucked inside the hour markers, to the beautiful blued hands that bring a touch of colour. What I also love about the Santos de Cartier is the perfect execution of the date window. Removing the 6 o’clock hour marker and replacing it with a date aperture with dial-colour-matched date wheel is the perfect integration, allowing the watch to keep the balanced and proportionate look and almost “blend” into the background without disrupting the look.
Movement
Powering these latest Santos de Cartier editions is the in-house Cartier 1847 MC Calibre movement. This is a movement known for its reliability, efficiency, and ease of maintenance. The 1847 MC Calibre movement is able to deliver precision and consistent performance that is suitable for daily wear, thanks to a 42-hour power reserve and 4Hz (28,800) operating frequency. The movement also features anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components and a shield made from soft iron that protects it against magnetic fields commonly encountered in daily life.
Initial Thoughts
Cartier’s latest models of the Santos de Cartier feel like a long-awaited update to the collection, the kind of evolution that’s not just needed, but makes sense. The introduction of titanium into the collection doesn’t change anything about what we already love about the model, but rather enhances the wearing experience and offers a different look from the glamour and luxury of the current line. The bead-blasted matte finish gives the watch a more utilitarian, almost adventurous edge, making it one of the most wearable Santos de Cartier models to date. It feels lighter, tougher, and more versatile for daily wear, and the added bonus is that you don’t need to worry as much about scratching or leaving marks on the bezel.
The black dial with fluorescent SuperLumi-Nova green indices and hands is another welcome update, giving collectors and enthusiasts an option that finally brings lume to the Santos line. This update is one that needs to be incorporated into more models in the collection, and with how well it’s likely to be received, hopefully, Cartier will take note!
But for me, the titanium model is the standout here. It’s the perfect blend of heritage with modern practicality, a reminder that even the most timeless designs can still evolve without losing their soul.
Specification: Cartier Santos de Cartier Titanium Large Model (Ref. CRWSSA0089)
- Dimensions: 39.8mm x 9.38mm thick, 47.5mm Lug-to-lug
- Case Material: Grade 5 Extra Low Interstitial Titanium with bead-blasted matte finish
- Dial: Anthracite with contrasting black indices with blued hands. Date window at 6 o’clock.
- Water Resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Movement: Automatic Cartier 1847 MC calibre
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with Anti-reflective coating
- Bracelet/Strap: Interchangeable Titanium bracelet and additional strap with Cartier’s QuickSwitch system
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $18,900
Availability: Available November 2025 from Cartier boutiques or head online to Cartier.com.au
Specification: Cartier Santos de Cartier Steel Black Dial Large Model (Ref.
CRWSSA0096)
- Dimensions: 39.8mm x 9.38mm thick, 47.5mm Lug-to-lug
- Case Material: Stainless steel with brushed and polished finishes
- Dial: Anthracite with contrasting black indices with blued hands. Date window at 6 o’clock.
- Water Resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Movement: Automatic Cartier 1847 MC calibre
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with Anti-reflective coating
- Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with brushed finish and polished screws, butterfly clasp, QuickSwitch, and SmartLink adjustment system