Girard-Perregaux returns to the roots of the Laureato to celebrate its 50th anniversary with the all-new Laureato FIFTY. A refined evolution that balances heritage, modernity, and unmistakable GP craftsmanship!
Fifty years ago, Girard-Perregaux would unveil what would become arguably their most iconic line. The Laureato, first launched in 1975, was a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The steel sports watch with integrated bracelet was starting to be widely popular in the 1970s, with the likes of Genta’s IWC Ingenieur and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak taking the watch market by storm.
Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato, however, featured an in-house quartz movement (Calibre 705) upon its first release. It was also certified as a chronometer, which underlined the brand’s embrace of precision quartz tech. As the first model was released during the quartz era, it made sense to release a highly refined high-tech quartz timepiece. Once the quartz crisis subsided, the brand stepped into making automatic movements, making the Laureato a versatile option for those who preferred a sports steel model.
What made the Laureato a unique offering was its design. The signature design of the Laureato combines three different geometries: a slim octagonal bezel, a round bezel base (circular plinth), and a tonneau-shaped mid case, creating a layered architectural aesthetic. The integrated bracelet was not merely an add-on either. The bracelet actually starts with the middle link connecting onto the lugs of the case, which makes it physically and visually merge into the case, maintaining a seamless continuity.
While the Laureato has undergone significant progression over the years, from the release of the chronograph version to the introduction of various complications and materials, the collection has retained the essence that made the original model so great. For the 50th anniversary of the Laureato, Girard-Perregaux has launched a variety of models that pay tribute to the original 1975 design.
The latest model is the Laureato FIFTY, a beautiful two-tone time and date model that has been re-invented so that it is slimmer in design, while also featuring the new calibre GP4800 movement that was released this year as part of the 50th anniversary celebrations. While it’s not a drastic change in design, it subtly refines the Laureato’s proportions and mechanics, reinforcing Girard-Perregaux’s philosophy of evolution over revolution.
“This new creation embodies both fidelity to the historic design and the integration of the most advanced technologies. A level of finishing and detail that testifies to absolute respect for the codes of Haute Horlogerie.”
– Girard-Perregaux
Case Design
The refined case design of the Laureato FIFTY measures 39mm in diameter x 9.8mm thick, making this model sit in the middle of the current existing line-up of 38mm and 42mm editions. Where it does offer an advantage over the 38mm is that it’s slimmer in design. This will also be the first two-tone offering for Girard-Perregaux’s current catalogue, making it quite a special offering for the 50th anniversary celebrations. For those who may be wondering why tow-tone, the combination of steel with 3N yellow gold, is also a reference to the first bicolour Laureato from 1975.
While personally I’m not overly fascinated by two-tone models, I do have to say that the execution here is done very well. Firstly, we have the full bezel in 3N gold, from the octagonal bezel to the circular plinth, which offers a beautiful luxury finish that is exemplified by the brushed finishing. The gold aesthetic then continues onto the central links of the bracelet, which as a signature design of the Laureatio, features a polished finish. This smooth, mirror-like, polished finish contrasts with the horizontal brushed finish of the steel H-links to give a stunning shine. Online pictures won’t do this timepiece justice; to appreciate the beauty of the two-tone aesthetic, you have to see it in person.
Dial Design
The dial features Laureato’s signature Clous de Paris pattern, which gives the model its distinctive texture and depth, catching the light beautifully from every angle, just like the case and bracelet design. Now, some may argue about the dial colour here, and that maybe it could be darker to offer more contrast with the indices and allow the gold bezel to stand out more; however, I think the deep sunray grey dial does the job right, as it matches the steel tone of the case nicely while also grounding the watch visually, ensuring the two-tone design remains elegant rather than flashy.
The gold indices and hands with SuperLumi-Nova ensure excellent legibility in low-light conditions while adding a refined touch of contrast against the grey dial. It also hammers home the two-tone aesthetic of the timepiece. With the steel of the case and bracelet having grey tones that contrast beautifully against the gold, the dial reflects this same aesthetic, with the deep grey highlighting the gold indices and hands.
Movement
Outside of the refined case design and the two-tone aesthetic, one of the biggest points of difference for this new Laureato FIFTY is the new GP4800 calibre movement. The end result of several years of development, the GP4800 calibre automatic operates at 4Hz (28,800 VpH) with a 55-hour power reserve, while bringing together performance and reliability thanks to the silicon escapement and variable inertia balance. What these two elements do for a movement is significantly improve its precision and stability over time, while also reducing friction and the need for regular maintenance. The construction of the movement is also new, as it is inspired by the Girard-Perregaux emblem: the Three Bridges.
The open case back of the Laureato FIFTY reveals the beautifully finished architecture of the GP4800 movement. There are no fewer than 10 different finishes on the movement, showcasing that this movement is just as much about being a reliable, robust workhorse as it is about aesthetic excellence, with every component meticulously decorated to reflect Girard-Perregaux’s commitment to artistry as much as engineering. What I particularly love about the caseback is the gold winding rotor, which is skeletonised to reflect the exact view of the bridge connecting the balance wheel!
Initial Thoughts
The Laureato FIFTY feels like a fitting tribute to one of Girard-Perregaux’s most iconic collections. Rather than reinventing the wheel to celebrate this special anniversary, the brand went back to its roots for inspiration, while focusing on refining what already works. A smart move, especially for a collection that’s celebrating 50 years of history. The two-tone aesthetic will not be for everyone, but it has been executed beautifully here. The gold accents of the brushed bezel and polished centre links add warmth, while also contrasting with the cooler grey tones of the steel case and bracelet, giving the timepiece a look that is luxurious without being loud.
The 39mm case size with a smaller case thickness of 9.8mm makes this model very wearable, a welcome update that improves comfort on the wrist without compromising the Laureato’s signature design. While the aesthetics have subtle improvements, what has truly changed is the beating heart inside. The new GP4800 calibre is not just another movement update; it represents years of quiet development and improvement. The improved accuracy and projected long-term stability, alongside the new case back aesthetic, show that Girard-Perregaux is stepping into a new era of technical refinement, where performance and design are given equal importance. Limited to a production of 200 models, the new Laureato FIFTY stays true to the model’s roots, while confidently stepping into the next chapter and showing us a glimpse of what’s to come for a timepiece that is unmistakably Girard-Perregaux.
Specification: Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY (Ref. 81008-63-3412-1CM)
- Dimensions: 39mm x 9.8mm thick
- Case Material: Two-tone steel with 3N yellow gold. Brushed and polished finish for both case and bracelet.
- Dial: Sunray grey with a “Clous de Paris” pattern, 3N gold-plated pink gold indexes with luminescent material (white emission).
- Water Resistance: 150m (15 Bar)
- Movement: Automatic winding GP4800 Calibre
- Movement Power reserve: Min. 55 hours operating at 4Hz (28,000 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Bracelet/Strap: Two-tone integrated bracelet with central links in 3N polished gold, while outer H-Links in horizontal brushed finish.