As Zac Efron and Zendaya once asked: “What if we rewrite the stars?” Well, the talented Saxon brand has gone and done just that.
Everyone has their fanbases. Whether it’s Swifties, Beliebers, Bros or Juggalos, people naturally congregate around a shared interest they all find equally compelling. Yes, this even exists in the watch world — though here, the screaming throngs of hormonal teenagers are replaced by engineering nerds and the wealthy.
While much of the community tends to rally behind the mainstream brands, there are also “cult” sects of the watch world that have gained serious traction of late. I’m proud to say I belong to one of them: the cult of Glashütte Original. The German brand, often compared with peers such as A. Lange & Söhne and NOMOS, manages to distinguish itself despite sharing much of the same DNA. For nearly two centuries, the town from which it takes its name has been a veritable hotbed of watchmaking, and deserves celebration on par with the Swiss or the Japanese. Having visited their boutique, I suspect I’ll happily die on that hill.
There’s no better example of this than the PanoMaticLunar. Bearing the hallmarks of the great German watchmakers who built Glashütte’s reputation, this stellar piece has become one of the Swatch Group brand’s most enduring designs. Now, to celebrate 180 years of Saxon watchmaking, Glashütte Original has decided to add a little extra zhuzh to this already remarkable watch. But given its asymmetric layout and distinctive silhouette, how do you enhance it without compromising its identity?
Well, the answer comes twofold. First, the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition measures 40mm wide, 47mm long and 12.8mm thick — dimensions that will suit most gentlemen. However, as the watch is encased in 950 platinum, the wearing experience will be far beyond what most might expect. Platinum is far denser than even white gold, so whoever wears one of these pieces will never forget whether it’s on or off — their arm will feel noticeably lighter the moment it’s removed.
The second elegant addition to this PanoMaticLunar edition is the use of aventurine glass. A first for Glashütte Original, this form of aventurine doesn’t refer to the quartzite, but rather a man-made glass infused with sparkling copper particles. This creates the impression of a dial that shimmers like a starry night sky. As if the platinum’s incredible finish weren’t enough, the aventurine adds a new layer of wonder to contemplate. The celestial illusion is further enhanced by the dial layout, which features a moonphase crafted from white mother-of-pearl.
It’s not just the aesthetics that have been refreshed — the PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition also introduces the new Calibre 92-14, replacing the long-serving Cal. 90-02 found in previous models. The movement’s specifications are as one would expect, maintaining the 4Hz (28,800 VpH) beat rate, but now boasting an impressive 100-hour power reserve. Given the Cal. 90-02’s upper limit of 42 hours, this marks a major technical upgrade for Glashütte Original, further enhanced by an automatic micro-rotor that sustains the reserve while worn.
The finishing has also received a notable update. All the traditional hallmarks of German watchmaking remain, but now the movement features a galvanic grey coating that contrasts beautifully with its golden accents. All in all, it’s a modernised take on a classic silhouette — proof that you don’t need to reinvent the wheel to refine a design.
My Thoughts
German watchmaking has always been something of an anomaly to me. Familiar as I am with the German traits of efficiency and elegance, it’s safe to say those values — mostly for the better — translate seamlessly into the world of horology. I was curious to see what the Germans could bring to the realm of haute horlogerie — but to say I was surprised would be a massive understatement.
What Glashütte Original is able to achieve on an industrial scale is nothing short of remarkable. While standout models like this are exceptions, the brand’s ability to design, craft and care for its watches remains astounding — especially given their relative accessibility. With 180 years of experience under its belt, I’m glad to have played even a small part in marking these celebrations. And it seems Glashütte Original is more than ready to rise to the occasion with the PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition.
Reference: 1-92-14-01-03′-61′ (Leather Strap) / ‘-64’ (Synthetic Strap)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40mm case diameter x 47mm lug-to-lug x 12.8mm thickness
- Case Material: 950 Platinum
- Dial: Aventurine with white gold accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 92-14 with micro-rotor, small seconds, Panorama Date & moonphase complications
- Power Reserve: 100h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Blue alligator leather or synthetic strap with platinum folding clasp