Dancing in the Moonlight: The International Watch Company has introduced a new addition to the Portofino Automatic Moonphase 40mm line — now finally offered in 18k 5N gold (IWC’s term for red gold).
In many ways, this feels overdue. The moonphase has been central to the Portofino identity ever since the landmark Giant Portofino Ref. 5251 of 1984, humorously nicknamed the “Spiegelei” (fried egg) by Italian collectors. Conceived by IWC’s lead designer Hanno Burtscher alongside master watchmaker Kurt Klaus, this distilled 45mm time-and-moonphase-only gold watch became the blueprint for the modern Portofino collection.
While the 37mm Ladies’ Automatic Moonphase has been available since 2014, and the 40mm Gent’s model since 2019, a gold offering in the 40mm size has been conspicuously absent — until now. One might point to the maximalist 45mm Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase as the truest nod to the Giant Portofino, but where this 40mm “egg” stands out is in its distinct minimalism. A time-and-moonphase-only watch is not a common offering in the watch world; at minimum, a moonphase is usually paired with a date, and from there complications escalate further.
The Portofino Automatic Moonphase 40mm in 18k 5N gold leans into formality with its silver-plated dial and classic black alligator strap. The moonphase — often regarded as the most formal of all watch complications — takes pride of place at 12 o’clock, subtly drawing the wearer’s gaze upward to the night sky. Alignment is everything here: the engraved ring, a Portofino signature, ties neatly into the moonphase display, while the robust minute indications — a hallmark of IWC’s design language — lend just enough structure and masculinity to balance the dial’s refined presence.
Within the IWC catalogue, there is no shortage of gold moonphase dress watches, but the price of this new Portofino sits at the more approachable end of the collection. This is mostly due to the Sellita-based Calibre 35800, rather than one of the brand’s in-house movements. Which raises the question: did IWC really need another gold moonphase? My answer — yes, because this one fills a very particular role: it’s an ideal gift.
Initial Thoughts
There is a sense of occasion to this watch. What sets the Portofino Automatic Moonphase 40mm apart is its simplicity. Where many of IWC’s gold moonphase watches highlight complex manufacture movements through sapphire backs, this model keeps things pared back to just time and moonphase — refined, approachable, and more intimate than its stablemates. The 40mm diameter, 11.7mm thickness, and simple profile make it an ideal blind buy, and in that sense, a perfect gift.
The use of a stylus corrector may seem unusual for such a simple complication, especially from the brand that pioneered the fully crown-operated perpetual calendar. Is it a limitation of this basic calibre? Yes. Yet there’s something wonderfully deliberate about it. The small tool, pressed into a discreet recess on the case to advance the moonphase, turns adjustment into a quiet ritual, much like winding your watch.
That same sense of ritual extends to the back of the watch. Where many of IWC’s moonphase models reveal their movements through sapphire display backs, the Portofino Automatic Moonphase 40mm opts for a solid case back instead. It provides a blank canvas for engraving — a date, initials, or a few words only the wearer understands — transforming the watch from a beautiful object into a personal keepsake, a marker of milestones such as a wedding, retirement, or anniversary.
The Portofino Automatic Moonphase in gold is, above all, a romantic idea: a watch that celebrates rituals, occasions, and timeless elegance, yet one firmly rooted in everyday wear. A quick-release strap system would be a welcome addition, turning this formal piece into a strap monster for the gentleman who’s deep down the sartorial rabbit hole. And against the vastness of the cosmos, something is humbling about placing the moon on your wrist, keeping a piece of the night sky close at hand.
Specification: IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Automatic Moonphase 40 (IW459403)
- Dimensions: 40mm x 11.1mm thick
- Case Material: 18k 5N gold
- Dial: Silver plated dial with gold-plated indices. Moonphase display at 12 o’clock.
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: IWC Automatic Calibre 35800 (Sellita SW300-1 base)
- Movement Power reserve: 50 hours operating at 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
- Bracelet/Strap: Black alligator strap with calf leather lining. 18k 5N gold pin-buckle.