This isn’t just another colour variant, it’s Zenith pushing the DEFY Skyline Chronograph into full-ceramic territory with its signature blue. The result is a watch that turns heads like a show car but wears like a daily driver. A fitting 160th-anniversary statement piece that blends Zenith’s history with its future.
Earlier this year, Zenith released a host of blue ceramic timepieces in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The timepieces included the Pilot Big Date Flyback, Chronomaster Sport, DEFY Skyline Chronograph, and, of course, the very special Zenith G.F.J timepiece. These special limited edition models were given the blue colour treatment as it’s a signature colour of the brand. The colour signifies the brand’s heritage and its ties to the brand’s star logo, with the deep, vibrant blue colour being a symbol of the night sky, and with the star being the highest point, it also reflects the brand’s vision of setting the highest standard of watchmaking.
With an extensive 160-year watchmaking history, Zenith’s latest collection of timepieces showcases the brand’s knowledge of fine craftsmanship alongside its mastery of high-precision timepieces. The DEFY collection, in particular, encapsulates the brand’s pursuit of pushing boundaries, blending bold design with cutting-edge engineering to deliver timepieces that feel both futuristic and unmistakably Zenith.
Zenith’s Defy collection was first introduced in 1969, alongside the introduction of the world’s first automatic high-frequency chronograph movement: the El Primero. The early Defy models (e.g., A3642, A3648) would set the stage for what would become the brand’s most bold, avant-garde collection with strong aesthetics that feature multiple angled surfaces. Over time, the Defy collection underwent many transformations: from the 1970s’ quartz period, to more daring designs in the early 2000s, then coming back to a more lean and sporty design in the modern era.
Zenith’s 160th anniversary celebratory timepieces!
In 2022, Zenith introduced the DEFY Skyline collection, which replaced the DEFY Classic line. The design cues of the modern DEFY collection include an integrated bracelet, geometric/star-patterned dials (four-pointed star pattern, modern reinterpretation of Double-Z logo), and a focus on sporty elegance. The eye-catching aesthetic was equally matched by the performance of the movement sitting inside: the El Primero 3620 caliber. This movement operates at a very high frequency of 5Hz, and also includes a 1/10th of a second indication, a specialty complication of Zenith.
Then last year, in 2024, Zenith introduced the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, expanding the Skyline collection with added complication and functionality. One of the standout features of this timepiece was the El Primero 3600 movement being capable of measuring 1/10th-of-a-second via the central chronograph hand, which does a full sweep every 10 seconds! When the collection was unveiled, Zenith presented the models in either a classic black, white, or signature blue dial combination. The highlight of this initial release was the white dial, which also came with a green rubber strap that completely elevated the look of the timepiece. Matt was fortunate to take this piece for review, which you can read below!
The use of ceramic to enhance wearability, aesthetics, and robustness of the timepieces is something Zenith is all too familiar with. The brand has used ceramic for the DEFY Skyline, DEFY Skyline Skeleton, and DEFY Skyline Tourbillon extensively in either black or white colours. What’s more impressive is that these models were full ceramic, meaning the integrated bracelet of the DEFY Skyline was produced in ceramic as well, providing an overall lightweight feel to the timepiece.
For the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, however, this is the first time that a full ceramic treatment has been given. It is also the first time in Zenith’s DEFY collection that the brand’s signature blue has been used for a full ceramic timepiece. Quite fitting, giving the monumental anniversary celebration this year, and a bold way of showing just how far the collection and Zenith’s watchmaking philosophy have come.
Initial Thoughts
When I was first asked what model of the new 160th anniversary releases I wanted to take for review, it was a no-brainer for me. I haven’t had the chance to review a ceramic timepiece yet, with the closest I’ve come to trying on one being when Chamath reviewed the Hublot Big Bang Integral Fly Back Chronograph in blue ceramic. I certainly enjoyed my time with the Hublot, so knowing this, there was a clear favourite in Zenith’s 160th anniversary line-up.
Seeing the pictures of the DEFY Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic online was just a teaser. I knew that pictures online, especially press shots, don’t always capture a timepiece’s full beauty, but even so, it was obvious this is a watch that demands attention. Much like the Hublot, it has that almost “Lego-like” quality, and I mean that in the best possible way. The crisp facets and bold geometry of the case design, combined with the deep blue ceramic, give the DEFY Skyline Chronograph a playful, ultra-modern, and luxurious look.
DEFY Skyline Chronograph Case Design
The signature 42mm x 12.7mm case design of the DEFY Skyline, with its dodecagonal bezel base combined with circular surface, looks even better in the ceramic material. Even with the ceramic material, Zenith has been able to execute the same finish on the case that you would find on the steel and other metallic models. The surfaces of the case and bezel have a vertical satin-brushed finish, while the chamfered edges have been given a polished finish. What this results in is a beautiful play with light, and while ceramic won’t shine as bright as metal or precious materials, it brings a softer, more contemporary sheen that highlights the sharp facets and gives the watch a stealth-luxury vibe on the wrist.
The chronograph pushers and crown have been given the same finish as the rest of the case, with the faceted edges being polished and surfaces being vertically satin-brushed. This not only provides a uniform and balanced aesthetic but also reinforces the timepiece’s thoughtful design. Every surface, edge, and control feels like part of one seamless design rather than an afterthought. It’s a small detail, yet it elevates the overall impression of quality and precision when you handle the watch.
The royal blue colour of the ceramic is also softer in appearance in person. In the press photos, the timepiece has a slightly darker shade of blue (which is what I mentioned earlier in that sometimes press photos don’t capture the timepiece fully!), yet in real life, the tone feels warmer and more vibrant. While the darker royal blue tones have their own beauty and merit, this lighter tone we get in person is especially beautiful under natural light, especially sunlight, where the blue ceramic reveals subtle depth and richness, which shifts as you move your wrist.
The integrated bracelet of the DEFY Skyline Chronograph matches the sophistication and vibrant aesthetic of the case, with the edges of the H-links and central links chamfered with a polished finish, while the surfaces have a vertical satin-brushed finish. These finishes transition beautifully from the case onto the bracelet, making it appear as if it’s one monobloc construction. The bracelet is also where the timepiece gets its “Lego-like” appearance from, with the links acting like Lego blocks stacked on top of each other! The full blue ceramic look ties it all together, giving the watch a playful yet luxurious vibe that stands out on the wrist as the statement piece that it is.
DEFY Skyline Chronograph Dial Design
The dial of the DEFY Skyline Chronograph is just as aesthetic as the case and bracelet. Zenith has carried the blue ceramic theme straight onto the dial, where the rich royal-blue backdrop is etched with the brand’s signature star pattern. This is a dial surface that changes personality with light. Thanks to the sunray finish, the tones of the royal blue dial shift as you move your wrist, from deep and moody like the night sky to a more vibrant and electric blue.
The generous amount of white SuperLumi-Nova on the baton hour indices and sword-style hour and minute hands not only enhances legibility of the dial in low-light conditions, but it also allows for a beautiful contrast against the blue. It gives the dial a crisp, high-definition look in daylight and a cool glow after dark, adding another layer of visual drama to an already eye-catching design.
The sub-dial design, a signature element of the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, features circular engraving with its own sunray finish. The textured finish, along with the sub-dials being recessed, allows it to naturally stand out against the starry-patterned dial, while also achieving a 3-D effect, so it looks crisp and dynamic rather than flat. Personally, I wonder what the dial would have looked like if it featured different coloured sub-dials. I know the standard design of the DEFY Skyline Chronograph is to have matching sub-dial and dial colours, but in this case, white or even black sub-dials would have broken up the full blue look to present a slightly more “colourful” aesthetic that stands out even more.
We are already past the point of this watch being a statement piece, as a full blue ceramic wristwatch is anything but subtle, so why not go down the rabbit hole completely? A pop of contrasting sub-dial colour would have pushed it into even bolder territory and given the dial a different kind of energy. Still, sticking with matching blues keeps the design cohesive and gives it that “all of a piece” look that makes the DEFY Skyline Chronograph so recognisable.
The thoughtful design of the date feature is another aspect of the dial that I love. Unless we replace the 6 o’clock hour marker and cut into the 6 o’clock sub-dial, there isn’t really any other option to integrate the date window other than to put it between the 4 and 5 o’clock hour indices. While this presents an unbalanced dial appearance, Zenith has done as much as possible to minimize this effect by colour-matching the date wheel with the dial to royal blue, making it blend in seamlessly. It’s a small touch, but one that keeps the focus on the dial’s overall harmony rather than drawing the eye to the date window.
El Primero 3600 Calibre Movement
The high-powered engine beating inside the DEFY Skyline Chronograph is the latest evolution of Zenith’s most famous engine: the El Primero. However, rather than simply just recycling an iconic heritage movement, Zenith have re-engineered the El Primero to be Calibre 3600, keeping the high-frequency DNA (36,000 VpH) and modifying it to adapt to modern watchmaking standards of having more reliability, efficiency and everyday usability.
When it came to re-engineering this movement, Zenith addressed some real-world concerns. The main issue being the power reserve (or lack of) in very high-frequency movements. Usually as the frequency increases, the power reserve tapers off because the escapement is drawing more energy with every beat. For the Calibre 3600, however, the engineers at Zenith have redesigned the gear train and barrel to improve efficiency, pushing the autonomy to what is now a very useable 60 hours power reserve. This allows the DEFY Skyline Chronograph to be a practical everyday wear timepiece, that even if you take it off for the weekend, the timepiece will still run normally by the time you pick it back up on Monday.
What makes the El Primero 3600 Calibre movement special isn’t just the 5Hz frequency and higher power reserve, its how that speed is displayed. The chronograph hand showcases the 1/10th of a second rate by making a full revolution of the dial every 10 seconds, so you can actually the high frequency of this movement in action. This certainly sets it apart from other traditional mechanical chronographs, turning every start of the stopwatch into a mini spectacle on your wrist.
While the El Primero 3600 Calibre has been used extensively through Zenith’s chronograph movements, there are a few changes that is specific to this DEFY Skyline Chronograph blue ceramic. These changes lie in the case back, which has a sapphire opening that gives view into the mechanical construction of the movement. The main change to the movement lies in the winding rotor, which has been skeletonised and now features “160 years” and Zeniths iconic star, marking this timepiece as a special celebration of the brand’s 160th anniversary.
How Does The DEFY Skyline Chronograph Wear?
On the wrist, the DEFY Skyline Chronograph surprised me with how light it felt. Before wearing the watch I knew that the bracelet was going to be light with its full ceramic construction, but the overall timepiece still felt lighter than expected. The certainly has bold looks, but what it also does is wear effortlessly on the wrist. At 42mm, this is not a small watch, yet on my 16cm wrist, it sat quite comfortably and didn’t feel overbearing. The integrated bracelet design really helps to hug the wrist nicely.
At 12.7mm thick, the case has enough presence to feel like a solid timepiece, and it sits at just the right height that I can pull the crown out and adjust the time without the need to take it off the wrist. Its a little detail, however, these small design elements are what makes the day-to-day practicality of the watch more wearable.
The use of the chronograph functions is also satisfying. Just like the crown, the chronograph pushers are easy to engage while worn, and when engaged, they provide a crisp, tactile click when you start, stop and reset the timer. With a 60-hour power reserve, you’re good for almost three days of non-wear, although in my case I didn’t get to test that properly, because the watch pretty much never left my wrist for the whole period I had it.
The case and bracelet put on a real light show too. The blue ceramic is eye-catching and demands attention, and the various finishes such as the vertical brushing on the surface and polished facets meant that every movement of the wrist throws off a different reflection. In sunlight especially, the watch comes even more alive. The deep royal blue pops even more and gives off a sporty but luxurious vibe. As a big fan of the colour blue, this particular shade just hit all the right notes for me, and I couldn’t help but admire it’s beauty whenever I could.
For this exact reason, is why this is actually is the first review timepiece where I asked for an extension just so that I could wear it longer. The stunning royal blue colour, the full ceramic bracelet and the effortless wearability of the timepiece really hooked me in. Whenever I wore it out, it would be a conversation piece, and enthusiasts and even non-watch persons would ask to get a closer look purely because it’s not something you see often on the wrist. Ceramic timepieces can be pricey, and understandably so, however, Zenith have made this DEFY Skyline Chronograph as one of the cheapest full blue ceramic timepieces on the market, making it an even more compelling proposition!
Final Thoughts
After spending some time with the DEFY Skyline Chronograph blue ceramic, its hard for me not to see it as the standout timepiece from Zenith’s 160th anniversary lineup. The brand could have played it safe by just simply having the blue dial on a steel case with combination of rubber or integrated steel bracelet, except they went all in with a full ceramic case and bracelet in the brand’s signature blue colour. Pair this with the modern high performing El Primero movement and it honestly is a complete package. The end result is a timepiece that feels true to Zenith’s history yet still forward-looking. The perfect embodiment of what the DEFY collection has always been about.
What really surprised me about this timepiece, however, was how wearable all of this boldness is. The 42mm case, although large on paper, sits perfectly even on slimmer wrists like mine, and the full ceramic construction helps to keep the weight down. The bracelet is a thing of beauty too. The lightness of ceramic means the links feel almost like Lego blocks, and when the bracelet is locked onto the wrist, it feels like a artistic sculpture that flows straight out of the case rather than a separate strap. Add in the 60 hour power reserve alongside the high-frequency 5hz movement and 1/10th of the second chronograph, the Zenith DEFY Skyline Chronograph blue ceramic is a watch that you can actually wear day in, day out, not just to be admired in a display box.
It’s rare for a review timepiece to hook me in so much, I can only imagine a handful of timepieces so far, and this was certainly one of them. For a full-ceramic, high-spec chronograph, Zenith has also managed to keep the price surprisingly approachable, making this one of the most compelling entries in the blue-ceramic segment, and easily one of my favourite watches of the year so far!
Specification: Zenith DEFY Skyline Chronograph Blue Ceramic (Ref. Ref 49.9502.3600/51.I001)
- Dimensions: 42mm x 12.7mm thick x 47.4mm lug-to-lug distance
- Case Material: Blue ceramic with mixture of satin-brushed and polished surfaces
- Dial: Blue-toned sunray-patterned dial with 1/10th of a second chronograph functionality. Chronograph counters recessed and spiral engraved.
- Water Resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Movement: Automatic winding El Primero Calibre 3600
- Movement Power reserve: 60 hours operating at 5Hz (36,000 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with Anti-reflective coating
- Bracelet/Strap: Full ceramic bracelet with mixture of satin-brushed and polished surfaces