Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3 is a rare fusion of heritage and innovation, crafted entirely by hand using age-old techniques. Limited to just eleven pieces, it stands as both a timepiece and a living manifesto for the preservation of traditional watchmaking.
La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud stands at the forefront of high watchmaking, crafting exceptional timepieces born from a fusion of innovation and tradition. While the brand has been around since the 18th century, “Ferdinand Berthoud” was acquired by a separate supplier that had no intention of creating timepieces. Luckily for us, thanks to the decision made by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of the Chopard Group, Chopard stepped in 2006 to acquire and “restart” the brand. It wasn’t until 2015, however, that Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud released its first timepiece. This first collection marked the start of the revival for the brand, reflecting what the original Ferdinand Berthoud would have created in modern-day watchmaking.
Born in Neuchâtel in 1727, Ferdinand Berthoud became a master watchmaker in Paris. He was appointed Horologist-Mechanic to the King and Navy of France, building marine chronometers and astronomical pocket watches. The brand, since its beginnings, has always had a flair for creating exceptional watches, and the revival by Chopard was done to stay true to that ideology.
The latest expression of that mission is the Naissance d’une Montre 3 (“Birth of a Watch 3”). This timepiece is both a homage and an experiment. By combining history and avant-garde technology, fine craftsmanship and traditional expertise, the watchmakers and engineers at La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud created the exceptional Naissance d’une Montre 3. This project took six years to make, preserving almost-forgotten craftsmanship in its purest form. The Naissance d’une Montre 3 isn’t about displaying fancy finishing. It’s about rejecting modern production where CNC, wire-erosion, LIGA, or other semi-automated production is used, but rather every component is created by hand with traditional tools.
“In all, more than 80 Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard artisans, specialists active in different crafts and locations (Fleurier and Meyrin) participated in the project. They worked and learned together with a common goal: finding solutions for crafting a timepiece entirely by hand, as well as documenting and referencing the entire production process. A database comprising thousands of photos and videos was patiently compiled to illustrate and explain the methods used to create each component of the movement and the watch parts.”
La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud
A total of 11 timepieces will be produced: ten in ethical 18-carat gold and one in stainless steel. The skeletonised dial showcases the exceptional movement sitting inside, where it features a constant force via a fusee-and-chain transmission system, a bimetallic balance, and a central seconds hand. It stands as a direct descendant and reinterpretation of Ferdinand Berthoud’s Astronomical Pocket Watch No. 3 (1806).
Case Design
The Naissance D’une Montre 3 features a 44.3mm x 13mm case that has an elegant yet muscular design feel to it. The case is either available in ethical 18k gold or a unique piece in stainless steel, and features sandwich case construction. The top portion of the case is the concave bezel, while the middle case construction features the elegantly curved lugs and the large fluted crown. These design elements are reminiscent of the 19th-century pocket watches that have inspired the Naissance D’une Montre 3. The sapphire crystal is domed and AR-coated on both sides, enabling a sweeping view into the movement while maintaining a refined silhouette.
Dial Design
The dial design stays true to La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud’s ethos, where the openworked dial shows us meticulous hand craftsmanship of a modern movement with ingenious design. The dial features an 18-carat white gold off-centre time-only dial that shows a double display of the hours in Roman numerals and minutes in Arabic. This specific design cue is in reference to Ferdinand Berthoud’s early Astronomical Pocket Watch No.3. Around the flange of the dial is the seconds display, which is shown through the singular seconds hand. All three hands are executed in flame-blued steel design, which beautifully contrasts against the 18-carat gold background. The blued screws seen throughout the dial also match the hands nicely and provide a stark contrast of colour to bring about a more colourful aesthetic.
What I personally love about this timepiece is the mechanics behind the operation of the movement. Firstly, we see the split bimetallic balance in operation between 10 and 12 o’clock, with the bridges executed in 18-carat gold. The split bimetallic balance wheel is a specially designed balance wheel that is designed to counteract the effects of temperature changes. Then, at the 6 o’clock position is the central highlight of this timepiece: the barrel and fusee connected by a chain. A signature design feature of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, the fusee-and-chain transmission system smooths the torque from the barrel to deliver the most constant possible force to the balance.
Movement
At the heart of the Naissance D’une Montre 3 lies the fully in-house, hand-made calibre FB-BTC.FC, an uncompromising movement. The project behind the FB-BTC.FC movement avoided using CNC-machining entirely, instead opting for historical tools and techniques. The fusee-and-chain transmission system was completely reworked for this timepiece, with the chain being 172 mm in length and comprising 477 components, including a hook and 285 links that are thinner than those used in other contemporary constant-force movements from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.
Despite the real estate occupied by this transmission system, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud was able to keep the thickness of the movement relatively small, only measuring 8.35mm thick. The movement also features 37 jewels alongside two diamonds, which act as endstones for the balance-staff. As this is a manual-wound movement, it operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 VpH) with a 50-hour power reserve. A remarkable fact of this movement is that it is COSC-certified, which means that this movement, which is entirely hand-made, is regulated by a bimetallic Guillaume balance and has passed modern chronometer trials. The mechanics used in this movement have been abandoned by watchmakers due to the difficulty in achieving high precision and stabilising the movement to modern standards.
Initial Thoughts
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance D’une Montre 3 is an ode to the art of watchmaking, a living demonstration that traditional craftsmanship can still set the standard for excellence in the modern era. After six years of development and thousands of hours of handwork, the resulting timepiece is far more than a high-end timepiece. This is a manifesto for the preservation of endangered skills and a reminder of how horology can still leave you in awe.
Every surface of the Naissance D’une Montre 3, every component, and every choice in the ingenious mechanical movement shows an almost obsessive pursuit of authenticity and chronometric purity. The steep price tag (CHF 850,000) and extremely limited production (11 pieces total) only underline its position as a masterpiece rather than a mass market timepiece. As an enthusiast of haute horlogerie, the Naissance d’une Montre 3 feels incredibly worthy of the devotion.
Specification: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre REF. FB 4BTC. 1
- Dimensions: 44.3mm x 13mm thick
- Case Material: Ten models in ethical 18-carat gold and one in stainless steel
- Dial: 18-carat gold movement with 18-carat white gold off-centre time dial. Power-reserve indicator between 9 & 10 o’clock. Split bimetallic balance between 10 and 12 o’clock. Fusee-and-chain transmission system at 6 o’clock.
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: Manual-winding Caliber FB-RES.FC
- Movement Power reserve: 50 hours operating at 3Hz (21,600 VpH)
- Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with AR coating on both sides
- Bracelet/Strap: Hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather strap with handcrafted white gold pin buckle