Hautlence is known for its more eccentric and fun pieces, and being the sister company to H. Moser & Cie, on the inside, they are serious timepieces. The new Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 and 5 are the best of both worlds – serious and fun!
A rectangular watch with wandering hours and a tourbillon is probably (educated guess) one of the least common design and complication combinations out there. But Haultence has done just this with the latest Vagabonde series 4 & 5 watches. Not only this, but the Neuchâtel brand has made these pieces into works of art, with the dials inspired by natural geometric patterns, similar to those of German artist, Via Lewandowsky, whom Haultence teamed up with at Geneva Watch Days to decorate its suite.
Each of these models is crafted in the iconic rectangular shape that Hautlence has become known for. While the case shape features slightly curved, angular lines, the circular wandering hours and tourbillon provide a nice contrast to this and add a sort of flow to the watch design. The geometric patterns add yet another layer to this, with the Series 4 having a 3D printed cubic structure, and the Series 5 is done in brass with a 3D printed organic structure in blue PVD coating that creates a very different effect to the watch.
Wandering hours are a little left of centre, and a different way to read the time. If you’re not familiar with it, here is a quick run-down. A wandering hours and minutes function essentially abandons traditional hands in favour of a more fluid, cinematic display. Instead of fixed central hands, hours are placed on rotating discs that sweep across an arched minute track, “wandering” from left to right before passing the baton to the next hour. As one numeral reaches the end of its journey, the next slides seamlessly into position, keeping the flow continuous. Minutes are read along the arc as the hour makes its passage, creating a display that is less linear, so to speak. It’s this sense of motion and theatre that makes wandering hours such a compelling complication – it draws you in, reminding you that telling time can be an experience, not just a function.
The case of each watch measures 43mm x 50.8mm x 12.2mm thick and is made from polished steel with midnight blue PVD coating that complements the blue of the dials, and with the white rubber strap on each, gives these a fresh look. Inside is the D30 self-winding mechanical movement, which is on display through the case back. It features a bidirectional pawl winding mechanism and a healthy three-day power reserve. Outside of the wandering hours and minutes, the Hautlence Series 4 & 5 Vagabondes have a tourbillon with a double hairspring that is visible from both front and back, and is made by Precision Engineering AG, which makes movements for both Hautlence and Moser, all being owned by the Meylan family.
Each of the Vagabonde models are limited to just 28 pieces, making them on the rarer side of things. Perfect for those collectors who want a brand you will see rarely in the wild, and even more so with the limited run numbers.
Initial Thoughts
I am always in two minds about Hautlence. On one hand, they make amazing watches at the highest level, but on the other, they do this with whimsy and a design style that is quite unique. This makes Hautlence a brand that you will either love or you won’t. Whenever I try on a Hautlence, I have this duality of thought, and this is again the same reaction I had this year at Geneva Watch Days. I’m not taking anything away from them, as I think they are very cool pieces, but they don’t resonate with my personal likes and style as much as other watches on the market.
But, that’s completely ok as, these are not your everyday watches and are not made for everyone. Hautlence are statement watches and head turners with a unique take on traditional watchmaking. The combination of the style, limited run number and the price of CHF 59,000 for each means these are watches for those discerning collectors who want what others don’t have.
References: Series 4 – AD30-ST02 / Series 5 – AD30-ST03
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 43mm x 50.8 x 12.2 mm / 10.9 mm without sapphire crystal
- Case Material: Case middle and horns, bezel and crown: satin-finished and polished steel with midnight blue PVD coating
- Dial: Series 4 – Base dial: blue PVD-coated brass with 3D printed cubic structure, lower levels sandblasted, top level polished and Series 5 brass with 3D printed organic structure in blue PVD coating
- Water Resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Movement: D30 self-winding mechanical movement, double hairspring flying tourbillon and wandering hours and minutes
- Movement Power reserve: 72 hours
- Crystal: Faceted Sapphire crystal
- Bracelet/Strap: White rubber, buckle in steel with midnight blue PVD coating