A new in-house movement for Trilobe has helped the Parisian brand set a new benchmark for itself, and it’s good!
In just seven short years, Trilobe has transformed from a bold Parisian upstart into one of the most talked-about names in independent watchmaking. Founded by Gautier Massonneau, the brand has built its reputation on poetic, disc-driven time displays that turn the act of reading the hours into a kind of theatre. It is what drew me to the brand – unconventional time telling. Now, in its seventh year, Trilobe opens a new chapter with the Trente-Deux. It may look similar to that of models past, but it has a whole new engine underneath.
But why Trente-Deux, or 32 in French? The name Trente-Deux is more than symbolic. It references 32 Avenue de l’Opéra, the address of Trilobe’s Parisian design studio and workshop, the creative hub where left-field watches come to life. So it is fitting that for Geneva Watch Days 2025, Trilobe introduces the new Trente-Deux, equiped with the newly developed X-Nihilo movement.
A Case Made For Wearing
I was lucky to try this piece on the other day, giving it a sort of test run, if you will, at Beau Rivage in Geneva. It wears unsurprisingly well, measuring 39.5mm across, 10.15mm thick, and 46.18mm lug-to-lug; it strikes an ideal balance between presence and wearability. The case is done in a seven-part construction, which alternates between satin-brushed, polished, and microblasted finishes, creating layers of texture that shift with the light. A fluted bezel lends it a classic edge, while the crown guards add to its sportiness. The watch is water-resistant to 50 metres, giving it everyday practicality, which is one thing I look for in a watch.
The integrated bracelet is well executed. Its tapering links are finished with a mix of brushed surfaces and polished bevels, which add to the light play of the watch, while the concealed double-folding clasp allows it to sit snugly on the wrist. Even the clasp mechanism, which is engraved with the Trilobe logo, has been carefully designed to disappear into the flow of the bracelet.
A Dial With A Difference
The dial is where the Trente-Deux becomes unmistakably Trilobe. Instead of hands, three discs rotate beneath fixed trefoil indicators: hours along a wide peripheral ring, minutes and seconds nested in a figure-eight at the centre. Offered in sunray blue or matte grey, the dials combine multiple finishes—grained hour rings, snailed seconds, and fine Clous de Paris guilloché that give the watch a beautiful texture. Applied silver frames highlight the figure-eight layout, adding a touch of elegance, as does the circular chapter ring, which is both satin-brushed and mirror-polished.
Legibility, often the challenge with alternative time displays, is surprisingly intuitive. The wide hour disc is easy to read, while the minutes and seconds discs spin as they tick by. On first glance, it may seem a little weird to read, but once you get the hang of it, it’s pretty easy. With the two references available, you have a deep blue dial with a sunray finish, or alternatively, a matte grey dial in the same finish.
The X-Nihilo Movement
As mentioned, this is a first for Trilobe – it’s very first in-house movement that allows this watch to be Trilobe’s first fully French-made watch. Trilobe has developed the X-Nihilo calibre, which has been conceived and built entirely in Paris. It’s a significant step towards full independence for the brand, and a great one at that. Speaking to the team in Geneva, they wanted to create this in-house, but rather than mirror something done before, they started from scratch and designed a unique-looking movement, which, honestly, fits with the brand.
The movement comprises 218 components and 34 jewels, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a 42-hour power reserve. This is a movement that is designed to be admired. The plates and bridges are treated in 5N gold, an openworked tungsten rotor that reveals part of the gear train, and a prominently displayed balance wheel that becomes part of the show. The contrast between the satin finishes and the grained base plate works well, as do other small details that you may not notice with the eye at first glance, such as the crews and jewels being highlighted with concave, diamond-polished surrounds.
Initial Thoughts
I was excited to see this release from Trilobe at this year’s Geneva Watch Days. Trilobe has been on my radar for a couple of years now, and I love the way they do unconventional pieces, like this and the Une Folle Journée. The movement has also been a pleasure to look at, thanks to the finishing, even though it was not in-house. With this new piece and the X-Nihilo movement, it means that Trilobe can say it is now 100% a French brand, made entirely in Paris.
Putting this piece on the wrist, it doesn’t disappoint. It is not your conventional watch, but this is what I love about it. The design really hugs the wrist, like any integrated bracelet watch should. But the proportions are what make this fit so well, and bridge the gap between a pure sports watch and something more. And for the price, €16,500, or approximately A$28,500 at the current exchange rate, you’re now getting a fully independent, manufactured watch that will be sure to turn heads!
References: 3201BS Sunray Blue / 3201GS Sunray Grey
Specifications
- Dimensions: 39.5mm diameter, 10.15mm thickness, 46.18mm lug-to-lug
- Case: Stainless Steel with a seven-part construction
- Water Resistance: 50 metres
- Dial: Sunray blue or matte grey, rotating disc display, grained and snailed finishes, Clous de Paris guilloché, silver applied frames
- Movement: Trilobe X-Nihilo calibre, automatic, 218 components, 34 jewels, 28,800 vph, 42-hour power reserve, 5N gold-treated plates and bridges, openworked tungsten rotor, visible balance wheel
- Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel, brushed and polished finishes, double-folding clasp with engraved logo