Fearlessly merging the fine arts with fine watchmaking once again, the Italo-Swiss brand has now teamed up with Lee Ufan! The South Korean artist demonstrates his unique artistic vision within this new limited edition Octo Finissimo.
With Geneva Watch Days 2025 marking the sixth year of the prestigious event, there’s always one brand you can count on to kick off the celebrations. Naturally, I’m talking about Bvlgari, the renowned Italo-Swiss jeweller–watchmaker. As one of the founding members of Geneva Watch Days, the expectation to impress is always there, but truthfully, Bvlgari doesn’t need the pressure — year after year they go to remarkable lengths to keep the creative flames of horology alive.
It’s something we’ve come to expect, given our growing familiarity with the LVMH brand. From reviewing their timepieces to visiting their manufacture in Le Sentier, you’d think it would be hard for Bvlgari to surprise even their most loyal followers. Yet, somehow, they manage it. Each year the brand takes on the unenviable task of outdoing itself — and of course, against the odds, they succeed every time.
How, you ask? Well, that depends. Some will point to Bvlgari’s seminal Octo Finissimo line — now 11 years strong, with its ultra-thin design collecting dozens of accolades, awards, and even world records to its name. Others might credit Bvlgari’s deep roots in the jewellery world, where generations of expertise and attention to detail have elevated the brand’s modern watch catalogue. Personally, I believe it’s a synthesis of both — paired with Bvlgari’s willingness to look beyond watches and jewellery for inspiration.
The result? Spectacular limited-edition Octo Finissimo models born from the minds of artistic savants. Think architect Tadao Ando in 2021, Kazuyo Sejima the following year, Laurent Grasso in 2024, or even the playful ‘Sketch’ series dreamed up by Bvlgari’s own Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Time and again, Bvlgari has seamlessly woven the wider creative world into their watchmaking. And this year is no different, with the unveiling of a new piece created in collaboration with another master of the craft: Lee Ufan.
Active across Korea, Japan, and France since the 1960s, Lee Ufan has shaped the visual, conceptual, and theoretical terrain of post-minimalist art. His practice centres on the idea of encounter — the emotional resonance of objects in space, rather than what they represent. Perhaps best known for his Relatum series, Ufan juxtaposes the stability and limitation of a rock with the infinite reflections of mirrors to explore the dialogue between material and space. Less imposing than Brutalism yet more contemplative than standard Minimalism, Relatum invites viewers to engage with its organic and relational sensibilities.
It was this work, and the striking philosophy behind it, that likely drew the eye of Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani himself. Inspired both by Ufan’s artistry and the exchange between two powerful creative minds, Bvlgari have unveiled the new limited-edition Octo Finissimo at this year’s Geneva Watch Days. For those already familiar with the Octo Finissimo, the silhouette will come as no surprise — a brutalist spin on Italian architecture, measuring 40mm across, 46mm long, and just 5.15mm thick. The use of grade 5 titanium, paired with the integrated bracelet, creates a wearing experience akin to a futuristic Roman gauntlet: light and close to the wrist, yet remarkably robust.
However, it doesn’t take long to see where the similarities with the standard Octo Finissimo line come to an abrupt end. The first detail that immediately stands out is the finishing of the case and bracelet. Both have been hand-filed to create a raw pattern reminiscent of a meteorite dial. The recessed sections of the bracelet links are sandblasted, while the steel bezel features a radial brushed finish. Together, these contrasting textures catch the light and cast shadows across the facets, amplifying the Octo Finissimo’s presence rather than restraining it.
The dial has been given similar attention, in keeping with Ufan’s works, projecting a sense of serenity. Described as ‘mirrored,’ it is in fact an aesthetic illusion, achieved through a dégradé-style fade from silver to black. This quiet minimalism carries the impression of reflecting some unseen, larger object beyond the dial itself. The effect is further emphasised by the all-black hour, minute, and off-centre small seconds hands, which seem to dissolve into the background.
Of course, every spectacular watch is only as good as its movement, and a timepiece that focuses solely on style ultimately lacks substance. Thankfully, Bvlgari excels at marrying style with substance, as becomes clear when you turn the watch over. The sapphire caseback, laser-engraved with Lee Ufan’s signature, reveals the Calibre BVL 138.
This remarkable movement, a staple of the standard Octo Finissimo line, measures just 2.23mm thin while still offering an impressive 60-hour power reserve and beating at a deliberate 3Hz (21,600 VpH). The Cal. BVL 138 also features a platinum micro-rotor and is decorated with Côtes de Genève (Geneva striping), circular graining on the mainplate, and bevelled angles, This serendipitously mirrors that of Ufan’s works: As the natural, limited rock can coexist with industrial mirrored steel, so too can this timepiece’s raw, ‘unfinished’ case harmonise alongside the meticulous technical mastery of the Bvlgari manufacture.
My Thoughts
Bvlgari’s artistic collaborations — for want of a cooler nickname — are genuinely some of my favourite watches ever made. While partnerships between artists and watch brands are far from uncommon, I truly believe Bvlgari has somehow mastered the art. I can’t recall a time when I’ve looked at an Octo Finissimo collaboration and felt the need to put on rose-coloured glasses.
Each limited edition Octo Finissimo, present company included, proudly stand on their own two feet. These aren’t just froofy business decisions handed down by a board of investors. Instead, they are a showcase of raw artistic talent, realised through the lens of what is an iconic collection of modern horology.
If we’re comparing Bvlgari to itself, I’d say this year’s addition to the ever-growing roster blows almost all of last year’s releases out of the water. That’s not to suggest last year’s launches were in any way lacking, but it does illustrate that Bvlgari rarely delivers anything less than 110 per cent, especially during Geneva Watch Days. In the end, this new Octo Finissimo in collaboration with Lee Ufan simply adds to an already crowded list of masterpieces from Bvlgari. Yet, it does so with an inspired spin that distinguishes itself without diminishing the pieces that came before.
Reference: 104132
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 5.15mm thickness
- Case Material: Hand-filed patterned titanium with stainless steel bezel & black ceramic crown insert
- Dial: Black-silver ‘mirror effect’ dial with black hands
- Movement: Automatic Cal. BVL138 with micro-rotor & small seconds complication
- Power Reserve: 60h
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Hand-filed patterned titanium bracelet with butterfly clasp