As comedian Eric Andre once said: “What if it was purple?” Speake Marin’s manufactory has answered this question in force within their Openworked Tourbillon line, releasing a duo of showstopping timepieces for this year’s Geneva Watch Days!
Whether it’s architectural masterpieces, satisfying engineering, or even the simplest forms of human interaction, the propensity for wonder can be found everywhere. Across the world, and particularly in Australia, there is certainly no shortage of wonder — from the Sydney Opera House and the red sands of Central Australia, to a 24-hour kebab shop after a late night out in Fortitude Valley. However, regardless of where you’re from, you have to agree that there’s nothing quite like a perfect sunset.
One moment I constantly notice when I walk home is the brief instant each evening when the sky becomes an incredible tapestry of colours. Violet, indigo, ultraviolet, and blue intersect across the starry canvas, in what the watch brand Speake-Marin refers to as the ‘purple hour.’ The brand was so inspired, in fact, that for Geneva Watch Days 2025 they sought to capture this ‘purple hour’ for all to wear on the wrist.
This new duet of timepieces builds upon the legacy of not only the Speake-Marin brand, but also the remarkable contemporary models that came before it. While the history of the One&Two Openworked Tourbillon line is relatively recent — with its initial debut in 2019 and a reworked rendition in 2022 — these new watches utilise the same Piccadilly case that Peter Speake pioneered back in 2002. This gives each watch in the collection a classically informed yet contemporary aesthetic, combined with meticulous mechanical engineering that is truly singular within the industry.
It’s for this reason that the British-Swiss brand has introduced two new renditions of the One&Two Openworked Tourbillon, this time in a brilliant purple encapsulating that ‘purple hour.’ Measuring 38 mm and 42 mm in diameter respectively, the case profile is unlike any other, thanks to the brand’s aforementioned proprietary Piccadilly case. Known for its distinctive round shape, large screwed lugs, oversized crown, and stepped bezel, the Piccadilly case embodies the brand’s blend of traditional elegance and industrial modernism, whilst still maintaining a familiar wearing experience. Invented by Peter Speake, but refined over time by rockstar designer Eric Giroud, it has become one of the brand’s most enduring design elements, alongside the sporty Ripples collection. Compounded by the use of Grade 5 titanium, the pair of Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour watches wear remarkably light, reflecting the ephemeral and ethereal nature of the moment they are named after.
Related Reading: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original
Speaking of purple, the dial of the new Speake-Marin duo is perhaps one of the best showcases of ‘refined eccentricity’ that the brand has aligned itself with over the years. Finished in a vivid, multi-textured purple PVD, it accentuates the layers of the openworked movement, giving the watch both depth and vibrancy. Despite the unusual layout, balance is achieved through a carefully considered symmetry of elements. This starts by placing the watch’s hypnotic flying tourbillon at the unconventional 1:30 position — a design choice that has appeared in most of its other collections, though mostly through a small seconds complication. This spectacular display is visually offset, yet proportionally balanced, by the barrel, integrated micro-rotor, and power reserve indicator at the 7:30 position. Completing the look, the Purple Hour is paired with a purple calf leather strap embossed with a denim motif and secured by a titanium pin buckle, reinforcing the contemporary and regal, yet playful personality of the piece.
Turning the watch around, however, the vibrant shades of purple give way to an entirely different, yet equally spectacular display. Here, you can see the manual-wind Cal. SMA05 — the beating heart of these new releases — in all its glory. Beating at 3Hz (21,600VpH) and offering a respectable 72-hour power reserve, the movement showcases the brand’s remarkable dedication to horological craftsmanship by way of Le Cercle des Horlogers in Neuchâtel. Geneva stripes, bevelled bridges, and refined gold-plated engravings are all visible through the sapphire caseback. Of course, the star of the show remains the extraordinary flying tourbillon, suspended under a rhodium-plated bridge shaped like the brand’s logo. Not only does this add an advanced level of mechanical accuracy, but it also enhances the visual appeal and drama of the timepiece.
My Thoughts
Something I’ve always appreciated about Speake-Marin is that, despite sharing many commonalities with other independent brands, they have managed to keep themselves a step ahead of the rest. Their approach to mechanics and design, while rooted in traditional watchmaking sensibilities, truly feels singular to them. It makes their work not only near-impossible to duplicate but also gives the brand a distinctive identity in a highly competitive industry.
Looking at the two new Purple Hour renditions of the Openworked Tourbillon, I have no doubt they will be a hit, both at the Beau-Rivage and worldwide. Purple has been making a subtle comeback in the watch world, so seeing a piece in my second-favourite colour is a welcome surprise. Speake-Marin, however, have made it unmistakably their own: combining the shade with their eclectic aesthetics and ultra-light titanium, these watches stand out without shouting, and I can easily see them becoming one of the most talked-about pieces of the entire event.
References: 913811570 (38mm) / 914211570 (42mm)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 38mm / 42mm case diameter x 13.25 thickness
- Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
- Dial: Openworked with positive purple PVD coating
- Movement: Automatic Cal. SMA05 with micro-rotor, 1:30 flying tourbillon & power reserve indicator complications
- Power Reserve: 72h
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Quick-release purple leather denim patterned strap with titanium folding clasp