New for Geneva Watch Days, Zenith has teamed up with Swiss furniture maker USM to reimagine what a Zenith Defy would have looked like as a chronograph, and what if it had teamed up with USM at the time? Well, now we know!
What would happen if you took two Swiss manufacturers, in totally different industries and put them together in a room to create something new? And what if it were the 1960s when designers were pushing the boundaries of shapes and colours, and if those were a watch brand and a furniture brand? Well, interestingly, Zenith has asked these very specific questions and done just this. Zenith has partnered with Swiss furniture maker, USM, to create a new look Defy. But rather than the Defy Revival time only, Zenith has reimagined this ’60s icon as a chronograph fused with the bold colours of USM’s design codes. Introducing the new Zenith Defy Chronograph x USM…
Who Is USM, And Why USM?
Family-run since 1885, USM was founded as a metal workshop in a small village just outside of Bern, Switzerland, taking its name from the initials of its founder, Ulrich Schärer, and the first letter of its hometown, Münsingen, where the factory resides to this day. In the 1960s, it was growing, and the third-generation CEO, Paul Schärer, commissioned Swiss architect Fritz Haller to design a new factory using a flexible and innovative steel modular construction system. This led to the inspiration of a new furniture line that was modular, too. While it was originally designed for the offices of USM, it gained popularity around the world and expanded beyond the original concept, thanks to the ingenious way you could create and adapt each piece to your space and needs.
Today USM Modular Furniture is widely recognised as a design classic, formally accepted into the permanent Design Collection of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York. As Zenith prides itself on being a watch brand that is led by design, it would make sense that these two Swiss brands that found their footing in the 1960s would get together and team up to create a watch that is unique to each.
Defying Convention
The new Zenith Defy Chronograph USM piece is limited to just 60 pieces, and comes in a choice of four colours, each from USM’s colour palette. On offer are USM Gentian Blue, USM Golden Yellow, USM Green, and USM Pure Orange. All vibrant and bright, like the USM Haller furniture range that evokes the style of the 1960s. To contrast the colourful dials, Zenith has placed their iconic overlapping subdials, done in silver with a fine concentric circular finish. As a bit of fun, the chronograph second hand is tipped with a miniature USM Haller ball joint, filled with Super-LumiNova, which is a nice subtle nod to the collaboration.
Each of the four models are crafted in a compact 37.3 mm stainless steel case that stays true to the geometry of the original Defy from 1969. The octagonal shape is enhanced by the 14-sided bezel that creates the iconic silhouette of the Defy. However, breaking up this otherwise familiar design is the addition of the pump-style chronograph pushers, which control the in-house Zenith El Primero 400 Calibre.
Speaking of the movement, as said, these all house the Zenith El Primero 400 Calibre Chronograph. This movement has been around now for over 55 years, originally starting life as the El Primero 3019 PHC – one of the first high-frequency chronographs in the world. The El Primero 400 built upon this later down the track as a modern, at-scale calibre used by Zenith. Beating at 5Hz / 36,000VpH, it features a 55-hour power reserve. The movement is visible through the sapphire case back and this provides the owner with a nice view of Zenith’s El Primero architecture.
Each model also features the now-famous ladder bracelet, originally designed in 1969 by the renowned Gay Frères company exclusively for Zenith. It adds to the vintage style of the watch and keeps the authenticity of the Defy.
A Unique Piece Of Kit
As part of the collaboration, Zenith and USM are including an actual piece of USM Haller furniture in the form of a modular watch box. It has been designed to be functional and extend beyond a watch box; however, Zenith is giving customers the ability to purchase just one watch or all four as a complete set. This would mean the USM Modular watch box will come in very handy indeed to store each piece.
Now the colours may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but they are all lively and take you back to a less complicated time of the late 1960s, where colour was all the rage. That being said, retro throwbacks are in vogue currently across a lot of industries, and this watch box serves as an example of that.
Initial Thoughts
There are a few brands that do a great job looking into their back catalogues to come up with re-editions and revivals. Zenith is one of those brands, thanks in part to their historic record-keeping and archives. If you’ve not read about this, check out our visit to the Manufacture in Le Locle. The Defy Revival was one of these good historical re-releases from a few years ago, and since then, Zenith has found success with the Defy Revival line, with the likes of the Defy Revival Diver and Diver Shadow. While this isn’t a revival in the true sense, it is a reimagining of what would have, or could have been had Zenith created it back in the 1960s.
The collaboration with USM may not instantly hit home for some people, especially those who may not be familiar with USM, but putting that aside, the use of the vibrant and funky colours make these a great choice for watch lovers who want something a little vintage, a little off centre and with great historical DNA built it. Oh, and you get a free piece of USM furniture too, so that’s a bonus!
References:
- 03.A780.400/19.M3642 – USM Gentian Blue
- 03.A780.400-1/65.M3642 – USM Golden Yellow
- 03.A780.400-2/91.M3642 – USM Green
- 03.A780.400-3/56.M3642 – USM Pure Orange
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 37mm in diameter
- Case Material: Brushed and Polished Steel
- Dial: Choice of USM colours. Paired with silver overlapping chronograoph counters and date window at 4:30. Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated hands with SuperLuminova SLN C1
- Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
- Water resistance: 100 meters
- Movement: El Primero 400 high-frequency automatic movement. Beating at 36’000 VpH / 5Hz
- Power reserve: 55 hours
- Bracelet: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet with folding clasp