73

The Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire isn’t just a watch. It’s a crystal-clear showcase of bold design and cutting-edge engineering. From the sapphire case to the architectural Unico movement inside, it is a timepiece that redefines transparency, and demands attention on the wrist in a way few others can!

Few watches turn heads quite like a sapphire-cased Hublot. With the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, Hublot takes transparency to new heights, transforming the bold square chronograph into a mechanical sculpture of light and precision. A square-shaped chronograph is rare in watchmaking, with the most iconic being the TAG Heuer Monaco. But as we know, with Hublot, they simply refuse to keep to conventional design, with the brand wanting to create its own design language rather than borrowing from others.

Hublot first introduced the Square Bang Unico collection during Watches & Wonders in 2022, creating quite a stir during the watch fair by introducing a square-shaped design that’s inspired by the brand’s iconic Big Bang models. The distinctive geometry of the Square Bang Unico was seen as a real feat of craftsmanship, with the first models of the collection already featuring high-tech materials.

The first few models of the Square Bang Unico collection, unveiled in 2022, came in either solid titanium, black ceramic, King Gold, or a blend of titanium and King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. This fusion of materials clearly indicated that Hublot wasn’t messing about. The Square Bang wasn’t a one-off experiment, but the birth of a new pillar collection. By applying Hublot’s philosophy of the “Art of Fusion” to this new square cased design, it offered collectors and watch enthusiasts a fresh canvas for innovation, while retaining the iconic DNA of the Big Bang models.

Hublot’s introduction into the world of sapphire came in 2016 when the brand introduced the Big Bang Unico Sapphire in a transparent sapphire case. At the time of this release, it was almost unheard of to create sapphire pieces in serial production. Since the Big Bang Unico Sapphire, it’s been a trailblazing period in which Hublot has kept pushing the boundaries of sapphire, with new colours, designs, and even full sapphire timepieces with sapphire integrated bracelets! Stepping into a niche that few watchmakers dared to enter, Hublot quickly positioned itself as a pioneer of sapphire watchmaking, creating one of the largest sapphire machining capacities in Switzerland.

Crystal Clear: Hublot Is Redifening Transparency In Watchmaking With Their Stunning Sapphire Creations!

I was fortunate enough to visit the Hublot manufacture last year, getting a personal tour of the brand’s sapphire making capabilities. One thing that became immediately apparent is that the challenge of sapphire is that it is incredibly hard and expensive to cut, polish, and machine. Sapphire can only be cut by one material, which is diamond, the hardest known material on earth. Specialised tools such as diamond-tipped cutters are used to cut sapphire into the required shapes.

Hublot loves a challenge. So when the Square Bang Unico was released in 2022, the next evolution in design was integrating a sapphire case into the collection. And by jolly did they deliver. In 2023, as a natural extension of the Square Bang Unico collection, the brand introduced three new timepieces, with one of them being the Square Bang Unico Sapphire. This release immediately positioned the Square Bang as one of the boldest square-faced watches on the market. The Square Bang Unico Sapphire blurred the line between case and movement, fusing both into a transparent sculpture.

The Square Bang Unico Sapphire is the “Art of Fusion” at its finest, bringing together two Hublot milestones: sapphire mastery and the Square Bang line. While it certainly broadens the appeal of the Square Bang collection outside of the brand’s more common materials, such as King Gold, titanium, and ceramic, it also positions the Square Bang as one of the more affordable options in Hublot Sapphire watchmaking. For Hublot, the Square Bang Unico Sapphire is about them being able to create a timepiece that is both modern and futuristic, showcasing that anything is possible if you dare to try!

Initial Impressions

Before even receiving the watch, I already had a deep appreciation for Hublot’s sapphire creations. Having seen several of the brand’s transparent sapphire masterpieces up close, I thought I knew what to expect from the Square Bang Unico Sapphire. Yet the moment I strapped it on, my feeling of the timepiece shifted from admiration to something more emotional.

The geometry of the square case, paired with the sapphire material’s transparency, makes it feel much less like a conventional square watch and more like a wearable sculpture. The Square Bang Unico Sapphire is a timepiece that demands attention, regardless of whether you want it or not, and it does so not through being a loud and bold design, but by allowing light to pass through its architecture, turning the mechanics of the case into a visual spectacle.

What truly surprised me, however, was how the watch came alive outside of boutique lighting. Under natural sunlight, the shimmering clarity of the sapphire case takes on another dimension, the surfaces of the Square Bang Unico case refract and reflect light in ways that make the watch feel as though it’s one being a jewel on the wrist. While seeing the timepiece indoors under artificial light is already captivating, nothing compares to the Square Bang Unico being in the sunlight, where it transforms into something extraordinary, highlighting every skeletonised bridge, gear, and chronograph element with crystalline brilliance.

Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire Case Design

As I mentioned earlier, this is the first time I have been able to review one of Hublot’s sapphire timepieces, and honestly, it did not disappoint. While I have held sapphire creations before, this is the first time I have actually been able to spend proper time getting to know the watch. The highlight for me, and I think it is fairly obvious when I say this, is the case design. The Square Bang Unico Sapphire measures 42mm by 12mm thick, and as expected, it is extremely light, weighing approximately 98 grams.

The Square Bang Unico Sapphire takes on the shape of Hublot’s Square Bang collection, with every curve and geometric detail of the sapphire refined to perfection. When you consider how difficult it is to mold sapphire, this watch is truly a work of art in itself. I also like that Hublot has kept the signature titanium H-screws on the bezel, which ties it back to the orignal Square Bang (and Big Bang) design. The surfaces of the crown and chronograph pushers feature rubber material, with the pushers given a “chocolate square” motif that provides better grip.

This is one of those pieces that you really need to try on in person. While pictures showcase the nature of the sapphire material, they do not let you immerse yourself in the experience of having it on your wrist and seeing how stunning it looks. As we know, sapphire truly comes to life when light reflects off it. I wore the Square Bang Unico Sapphire during both day and night, and while it looked striking under artificial light, I was honestly taken aback by how incredible it appeared in natural sunlight. In the daytime the watch glistened with beauty, and I found myself constantly in admiration. I think it is becoming quite obvious that I am a big fan of Hublot’s sapphire creations.

Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire Dial Design

Sitting inside the Square Bang Unico Sapphire is Hublot’s impressive Unico 2 movement, also known as the HUB1280. The dial showcases this movement to its fullest extent, with the sapphire construction providing even greater transparency. The sapphire elements continue from the case onto the dial, and I personally think this has been beautifully executed, as it reveals even more of the HUB1280 movement underneath while still retaining good dial readability. Plenty of lume is also provided, just like the standard Square Bang Unico models, with the skeletonised hour and minute hands, baton hour indices, and subdial hands all featuring white Super-LumiNova.

While it is a staple design of the Square Bang Unico collection, the one aspect of the dial that I think could be improved is the appearance of a circular movement on a square face. I understand why it is this way, as the Unico chronograph movement is arguably one of the best in watchmaking, so it makes sense to integrate it into the Square Bang chronograph model. Hublot has done its best to make the circular skeletonised movement fill the square case, with the core of the dial designed to present a more square-shaped aesthetic. On the standard Square Bang Unico models this works well, but on the sapphire version, the transparent corners make the circular outline of the movement much more noticeable. This gives the impression that the movement does not completely suit the timepiece. However, this is only a small flaw in what is otherwise an impressive movement that delivers outstanding mechanical performance.

A fully transparent dial is not without its drawbacks, and in this case it comes in the form of the date window. One of the signature features of Hublot’s skeletonised dials is being able to see the calendar disc in full transparency, which I personally love. On the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, the date window is integrated into the 60-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, appearing through an aperture at the 15-minute mark. On other Square Bang Unico models, the date is quite visible because the chronograph counter is not fully transparent. However, in this sapphire version, only the outer ring of the counter is crafted from sapphire, and due to its transparent nature, the date window almost blends into the background of the movement. Hublot has tried to counter this by adding a backing to the aperture, but since the date numerals are kept light to match the transparent look of the watch, they still blend in and become difficult to read.

In saying this, however, the core essence of this timepiece is its transparency, and honestly not many brands do it better than Hublot with its sapphire creations. I love the fact that even the crown can be visually traced back to the HUB1280 movement through the sapphire case, reinforcing the idea that nothing is hidden. The column wheel of the chronograph is also prominently displayed at the 6 o’clock position on the dial, allowing the wearer to watch the mechanics in action each time the chronograph is engaged. Seeing this level of detail is exactly what makes the Square Bang Unico Sapphire so compelling: it is not just about wearing a watch, but about experiencing the movement in its purest and most visible form.

HUB1280 Unico Manufacture Movement

At the heart of the Square Bang Unico Sapphire is Hublot’s HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement (also known as Unico 2 movement). Unlike traditional chronographs that hide much of their complexity beneath the dial, this second-generation in-house chronograph movement was designed from the ground up to be open and architectural, beautifully showcasing the raw mechanics, much like the sapphire transparent case housing it.

At the 6 o’clock position on the dial, the chronograph’s column wheel is shown, which allows the wearer to see the mechanics of the chronograph in action once it’s activated, while the flyback function gives a practical edge to the complication. Despite its technical prowess, the HUB1280 remains slim enough to keep the overall profile of the watch wearable, at just 6.75mm in thickness for the calibre.

The HUB1280 Unico movement has been designed with everyday wearability in mind. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 VpH while offering a decent power reserve of 72 hours, offering more than enough autonomy to last you throughout the week, even if you do decide to take the watch off for two to three days. A movement that has been built for reliability also has a beautiful aesthetic caseback. While it doesn’t feature technical finishes par the brushed finish of the skeletonised rotor, what it excels in is showcasing the raw mechanics of the movement, such as the gear train for the winding system, barrel & mainspring, escapement, and hairspring, as well as the various jewels that add a touch of colour.

How Does Square Bang Unico Sapphire Wear?

This was my first time being able to review one of Hublot’s sapphire creations, and I absolutely loved every minute of it. While the dial may have some slight drawbacks in this sapphire edition, the main highlight of the watch is the case and its transparent aesthetics, which Hublot has simply mastered to perfection.

While a 42mm case may seem quite large on paper for my 16cm wrist, it actually did not feel that way once I tried the watch on. Before receiving it, I was slightly concerned it might be too big, but thanks to the short, tapered lugs combined with the textured rubber bracelet, it fit my wrist perfectly. The strap also provided a snug and comfortable fit, making the watch feel secure without being overwhelming.

With a thickness of 12mm, it is just the right size for a sapphire case, giving the watch plenty of wrist presence (not that it needs any). At only 98 grams in weight, it feels incredibly light, and if it were not for the thickness of the case, you would barely notice it on your wrist.

While it may not be your typical daily watch, I can certainly see myself wearing this on almost any occasion. With 50 metres of water resistance, it may not be suited for swimming, but it can easily handle the demands of everyday life. This is very much a statement piece, and it will inevitably elevate any attire you pair it with, drawing admiration and attention wherever you go.

While Hublot does offer sapphire timepieces with fully integrated sapphire bracelets, I feel that the transparent structured rubber strap is the perfect addition to the Square Bang Unico Sapphire. Not only does it make this sapphire model more affordable, but it also allows it to be far more practical for daily wear. With the Australian summer just around the corner, a rubber strap is an ideal choice for a timepiece like this. If a transparent strap is not your preference, Hublot’s quick-change system makes it easy to swap for another colour of your choice. Personally, I think a black rubber strap would make this watch stand out even more, creating contrast and drawing full attention to the sapphire case.

Final Thoughts

Looking back on my time with the Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire, I can’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this timepiece beyond the inside of a boutique. Having visited the Hublot manufacture and witnessed the sapphire-making process firsthand, I knew the level of extreme difficulty involved in the creation of these incredible cases. From the diamond-tipped tools cutting the raw material to the endless polishing required to achieve full transparency, you truly come to admire Hublot’s high-watchmaking once you understand and see the processes involved.

Even with this deep admiration, it wasn’t until I wore the Square Bang Unico Sapphire that I truly understood what all this painstaking effort translates into: a timepiece that blurs the line between mechanics and sculpture. A watch that is able to constantly play with light in ways I couldn’t possibly imagine. The highlight of this watch for me still is its ability to shift character depending on the environment.

While I still think the circular movement on a square sapphire case is slightly noticeable, it’s a minor drawback compared to what this watch achieves. Lightweight, comfortable, and endlessly fascinating to look at, the Square Bang Unico Sapphire is a reminder of why I admire Hublot’s sapphire creations so much. This is a watch that goes beyond novelty. It showcases not only what Hublot can achieve, but what modern watchmaking is capable of, and it is absolutely a timepiece that deserves a place in any serious watch collection!

Reference: Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire Ref. (821.JX.0120.RT)

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 42x42mm case x 12mm thick
• Case Material: Polished sapphire crystal case and bezel
• Dial: Open-worked dial showcasing HUB1280 Unico movement. Subcounters in sapphire crystal (transparent material)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
• Movement: Automatic HUB1280 Unico Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel
• Power Reserve: Approx. 72h
• Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
• Strap: Transparent Structured Lined Straps with Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: A$155,000

Availability: Available now through Hublot boutiques, retailers, and online at Hublot.com.au