Tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, these two new Panerai releases pay tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). While they share the same silhouette, there is one major difference between them: the case is offered in either steel or Carbotech™.
Panerai is perhaps one of Italy’s definitive contributions to watchmaking, but it wasn’t always this way. Though they have been a staple of horological history since their foundation in 1860, the Florentine brand wasn’t even publicly accessible or known until 1993. Before then, Panerai primarily produced watches for the Italian Royal Navy – a partnership that began in the 1910s and has now spanned over a hundred years. In-line with strict military standards, Panerai was kept at the forefront of pioneering technical solutions, enhancing military operations even in the most extreme of environments. When they finally went public, they released the Radiomir and Luminor models, along with the Mare Nostrum.
As time went on, however, Panerai became another established name within the modern industry, creating timepieces with a singular aesthetic for adventurers and tastemakers alike. While this has attracted some criticism in the past, they remain steadfast in their philosophies, continuing to refine the original designs that first won the admiration of enthusiasts.
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Five years later, the world would see the 1998 introduction of the Submersible line – the professional next step of Panerai’s illustrious legacy. Even with this more modernised silhouette, they have never forgotten their roots, and the latest releases are no exception. This year, the Richemont-owned brand has unveiled military-inspired models, crafted for modern adventurers yet firmly rooted in Panerai’s mission to combine robust engineering with contemporary functionality.
The Panerai Submersible Marina Militare duo – PAM1697 and PAM1698 – pay direct tribute to the Marina Militare, particularly the Aviazione Navale, the Italian Navy’s aviation branch. Reflecting decades of precision engineering and innovation, these watches draw inspiration from the elite Aviazione Navale and demonstrate Panerai’s ability to produce purpose-driven timepieces. Featuring cutting-edge materials and advanced functionality while remaining deeply connected to the brand’s legacy, these two Submersibles are about as serious as watchmaking gets.
Measuring 44mm in case diameter, 54mm lug-to-lug, and 13.5mm thick, the Panerai Submersible Marina Militare watches are certainly large. However, if you’re familiar with Panerai, the sheer size of their timepieces is both expected and a distinctive selling point. Where they begin to differ significantly is in their individual wearing experiences, as the PAM1698 is housed in a proprietary Panerai case made entirely from Carbotech™.
Apart from the caseback, which is made from black DLC titanium, PAM1698 is fully constructed from this material. Unlike regular carbon fibre, Carbotech™ is composed of multiple sheets of the material, compressed under precise pressure and high temperature in combination with PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone). The result is a comfortable, ergonomic, feather-light case that is more durable, corrosion-resistant, and resilient than standard carbon fibre alone. Furthermore, the way Carbotech™ is cut produces a varied matte-black surface, giving each watch a subtly unique appearance.
On the other hand, the PAM1697 is crafted from standard 316L stainless steel, and is fitted with a matte green ceramic bezel insert instead of one made from pure Carbotech™. Both watches, however, share the same dial design elements that reinforce Panerai’s enduring partnership with the Italian Navy, as well as their 300m water resistance, thanks to the enlarged crown guard, which is a signature of the brand. Each features a green-grained matte dial with a black gradient finish, inspired by flight gear and helmets worn by the Aviazione Navale, along with the Marina Militare signature at 6 o’clock. The straps are colour-matched to the dial, featuring green canvas with a black rubber inner and black DLC titanium buckles.
An interesting detail to appreciate is tucked away in the small seconds counter, styled to resemble a radar display. Within, the historical Aviazione Navale aircraft anchor insignia is subtly engraved. Grey Super-LumiNova®, echoing the colours of Aviazione Navale aircraft, enhances legibility in low-light conditions. Finally, the applied indexes are significantly wider on these models as opposed to other Submerislble references, maintaining their professional purpose whilst distinguishing them further from the standard line.
While you won’t be seeing the movement inside anytime soon, the casebacks of the Panerai Submersible Marina Militare duo are engraved with the Aviazione Navale wings emblem – a first in Panerai’s collections and a fitting detail for a militarily inclined timepiece. Even so, you can trust that Panerai’s horological capabilities remain as sharp as ever, with the in-house automatic Calibre P.900 ticking within. With a luxury-standard 4Hz (28,800 vph) beat rate and a 72-hour power reserve, the movement is about as reliable as it gets for a modern Panerai wristwatch, ensuring that the inner workings are every bit as cutting-edge as the exterior design.
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My Thoughts
Panerai’s ability to continuously evolve within what is, at its core, a tightly defined design language is nothing short of remarkable. Not many other brands are able to, for want of better words, ‘stick it out’ with an aesthetic as long as Panerai has, but the methods with which they have evolved their lineup have been as surprising as they have been limitless. The Submersible, though a more recent addition compared to the Radiomir and Luminor, has quickly carved out its place among the greats of professional dive watches, proving itself a worthy counterpart to its historic siblings.
Now, with the Submersible Marina Militare duo, that legacy has been pushed even further. By merging Panerai’s signature pragmatic design with advanced materials like Carbotech™, these models nurture both the spirit of their military partnership and the incredible level of craftsmanship that got them there in the first place. It’s a clear signal that the brand has no intention of resting solely on its heritage, but rather continues to reinforce its reputation through uncompromising engineering and modern innovation.
References:
- Steel: PAM1697
- Carbotech™: PAM1698
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 44mm case diameter x 54mm lug-to-lug x ~13.5mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel/Carbotech™ with matte green ceramic/Carbotech™ bezel
- Dial: Matte green-grained with grey Super-LumiNova®
- Movement: Automatic P.900
- Power Reserve: 72h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 300m (30bar)
- Strap: Interchangeable green canvas strap with black rubber inner & black DLC titanium pin buckle