When it comes to Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendars, arguably no one does it better than Vacheron Constantin. And now, a white gold with a burgundy dial and a full pink gold model join the lineup.
I’ll start by saying this. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton (white or pink gold, I don’t mind) is one of the many watches on my grail list. There is something about the ultra-thin movement, the way the case sits on the wrist and the presence it has without being too out there, just works. That being said, secondary to this would be the non-skeleton models. They’re a little less showy on the dial, but stunning nonetheless. If I were given one, I would not say no, put it that way. So when we were invited to see the new Overseas Perpetual calendar Ultra-Thin models and shoot them, let’s just say we were on the next plane.
A Brief Backstory
Since 1996, the Overseas collection has grown in strength, transitioning from what was a modern version of the 222 from the 1970s to a fully fledged collection in its own right, combining the DNA of the 222 with much more modern design cues we know today. This was in part due to the 2016 redesign of the Overseas collection, where they received new movements, more refined cases, the interchangeable strap system and the Poinçon de Genève, or the Hallmark of Geneva, being awarded to all these models. As part of the new collection was the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with the Calibre 1120 QP, the same calibre found in all Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins since. At just 4.05mm thick, it is just another reason to appreciate the technical skill that has gone into the overseas Perpetual Calendar.
Worthy Additions To The Collection For The 270th
So this brings us to the newest releases – two new models that are both the same, but also very different and both worthy of the 270th Anniversary celebrations this year. Joining the lineup is a new white gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, with a deep burgundy lacquer dial and another Ultra-Thin PC in 5N pink gold, with a pink gold dial. Both these watches are stunning in their own right, and thanks to the multiple interchangeable rubber straps that come with each, you can really make a statement with either, depending on what mood strikes.
As mentioned, Vacheron Constantin has chosen to pair these watches with not only the precious metal bracelet in white or pink gold, but also two different rubber straps to complement and contrast with the cases and dial. Traditionally, Vacheron would give you a leather and rubber to go with the metal bracelet, but in their wisdom, these are summer-ready with the two rubber straps. In all honesty, most people who own an Overseas model will either wear it on the rubber strap or the bracelet, versus the alligator leather, in my experience.
Both are in the same case as those that have gone before them. Each measures 41.5mm in diameter, and a very slender 8.1 mm thick, and has a soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection. These are also 50m water-resistant, so should the urge take you, you can jump in the water and swim with them on. Given they are gold, I would caution playing Marco Polo with the kids in the pool, though, as the watch could come off second best.
The dials are what you would come to expect from a Vacheron Overseas Perpetual Calendar. The burgundy lacquer dial has a deep presence to it, thanks to the lacquer and sunray effect. However, the 5N pink gold dial really has a warmth to it that is hard to beat. The 5N gold base is sunburst satin-finished, then has a golden-toned translucent lacquer applied to it for depth. Each has a velvet-finished flange with the 5-minute markers done in a soft blue.
On the dial, there is all the key information you need to keep track of the passage of time across the years. At 12 o’clock is a 48-month dial that will also track the leap years – broken down into four segments, each representing a year, with the leap year in the fourth quarter represented in light blue. Jan, Apr, Jul and Oct indicate the start of the quarter with small markers for the months in between. At 3 o’clock is the date dial, at 6 o’clock is the moon phase with constellations surrounding the moon and at 9 o’clock is the day of the week. All of which are circular grained. On the dial below, when reading it, it is Wednesday, June 11th, (you can see the small marker for May is visible), the year after a leap year and almost a full moon.
The Calibre 1120 QP/1 Ultra-Thin
On the flip side, you can see the ultra-thin Calibre 1120 QP/1 beating through the sapphire crystal caseback. As touched on, this is the calibre Vacheron Constantin released in 2016 with the new generation of Overseas models. The calibre 1120 QP/1 measures only 4.05mm thick and comprises 276 components all working in harmony to ensure the perpetual calendar keeps accurate time and track of the day, date, month, years, and the phases of the moon until 2100. Beating at a rare 2.75 Hz / 19,800 vibrations per hour and having a 40-hour power reserve, this is a watch designed to be worn daily. Like most Vacheron Constantin pieces, this has received the Hallmark of Geneva, the Poinçon de Genève for both the case and movement.
I always love looking at a Vacheron Constantin movement as there is a good level of attention to detail. No, the finishing isn’t quite Greubel Forsey or Kari Voutalainen, but it still is superb. The solid rotor made from 22k gold bares the compass rose that symbolises the Overseas spirit of travel and exploration. Under this, the bridges and plates showcase Côtes de Genève, straight-graining, chamfering, and circular-graining techniques. All this is done to enhance the play of light across the movement.
On The Wrist
Now, this isn’t a review, but how could we get these in our hands and not test out the wearing experience? The answer is we could not! As I mentioned at the start, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is on the list of watches that I’ll get “one day”. Or at least I’ll dream about it. Part of this reason is the way these wear on the wrist, at least for me, anyway. The 8.1mm thick case is enough to know you have a watch on, but slim enough so that it doesn’t feel like you have a watch on. Yes, it is a little bit of an oxymoron here, but try one on and you’ll know what I mean.
The rubber strap that Vacheron Constantin makes is probably one of the best in the business, in my opinion. They have the right balance of being soft without being too thin and, as a result, are super easy to wear. On an ultra-thin perpetual calendar like the Overseas, this is important as it keeps the thin feeling on the wrist the whole way around. Nothing worse than a bulky rubber strap on a well-made and thinner watch. The other thing I like about them is that Vacheron has put some thought into the design of the straps, too. The texturing makes this feel like it belongs on a luxury watch, commanding well over six figures, and the design details Vacheron uses from the Maltese Cross extend to the textured pattern and the clasp.
Initial Thoughts
When I first saw the press kit for the new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin pieces, I thought that I would instantly gravitate towards the white gold with the burgundy dial. Seeing these in person, however and putting them on the wrist, the choice became instantly harder. Both watches are beautiful in their own right, and both have equally great things I like about them. Yes, they are essentially the same watch, but the white gold vs the 5N pink gold case makes a big difference to how they look, as does the deep burgundy dial vs the pink gold dial. Throw a few strap colour combinations in there and you’ve got a coin toss decision.
After pondering and writing about the models, I feel like I’ve warmed to the Pink Gold model on the white rubber strap. The combination of the white on pink gold just looks great. The full gold bracelet for me is a little too much with my skin tone, so I need the contrast to break it up a little. The full white gold bracelet with the burgundy dial works much better for me, but in the summer months, I could see myself wearing this on the burgundy or white rubber strap more so. But that is the beauty of the Overseas collection, as Vacheron Constantin gives you the options as standard with the quick-release straps and bracelets. You can essentially pick one to suit your mood at any time of the day or week.
Outside of personal choice, overall, this release is another fitting addition to the growing Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin collection. They are well executed, as you have come to expect from Vacheron Constantin, and for a precious metal sports watch, it doesn’t get much better than these.
Reference: 4300V/220R-H144 (Pink Gold) / 4300V/220G-H151 (White Gold)
Specification:
- Dimensions: 41.5 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick
- Case Material: 18K White or 5N Pink Gold, brushed and polished
- Dial: 18K 5N pink gold with golden-toned translucent lacquer or Burgundy with Burgundy lacquer. Both with sunburst satin-finished base with velvet-finished flange; snailed counters. Moonphase disc and moons in 18K white or 5N gold. 18k White or 5N gold markers, hours & minutes hands. All highlighted with blue Super-LumiNova®
- Crystal: Sapphire Crystal, anti-reflective coating inside
- Water resistance: 50 meters
- Movement: In-house Calibre 1120 QP/1. Beating at 2.75 Hz / 19,800VpH. 276 components
- Power reserve: 40 Hours
- Bracelet/Strap: 18K White or 5N pink gold bracelet (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by an 18K gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system. In addition, a white or blue rubber strap on the 5N Pink Gold model or a white or burgundy rubber strap on the White Gold model.