Kick on Joey Valence & Brae’s second album, as we’re about to take a trip with no hands! Join me as I count up a few timepieces that do away with traditional time-telling conventions.
For as long as time has been measured, watch lovers and watchmakers around the world have sought new and inventive ways to tell it. This pursuit quickly took a practical form: to use of a set of hands to track time. “But,” some innovative minds must have said to themselves, “what if we didn’t use any?”
A question asked by many a bike-riding toddler, for certain, but in the watch world this led to the creation of countless unique timepieces. Some are strange, others spectacular – but only a few have been clever enough to tell the time without the restriction of a handset. For those tired of tracking rotating spokes around a dial, and who, for some reason, want to tell time with discs, sounds, lovers, or even a rubber duck, here are ten of the most spectacular watches that don’t need any hands at all!
Mr. Jones A Perfectly Useless Afternoon
If you’ve started dipping your toes into the wonderful world of watches, there’s a good chance you’ve come across a Mr Jones timepiece at some point. Maybe it was online, sent to you by a friend eager to support your new interest, or perhaps you even stumbled into their boutique near Covent Garden like I did! Either way, you’ve likely seen one. But that’s a good thing: unlike other budget-friendly watches with so-called ‘quirky’ designs, Mr Jones Watches has horological credibility to match its playfulness.
By liberating the wristwatch from being purely functional, this eccentric British brand revels in creating beautiful, distinctive pieces of wearable art that you can enjoy with pride. Among their most popular models is A Perfectly Useless Afternoon, which replaces traditional hands with an illustration by Kristof Devos.
The artwork shows a figure lounging on a float in a pool, accompanied by a rubber duck. Here, the time is read via the position of the person’s leg for the hours and the duck for the minutes. It’s an odd way to tell time, no doubt, but also a gentle reminder to slow down and take a break. The mechanical version of the watch houses a Sellita SW200 automatic movement and starts at £595, while a more affordable quartz rendition is available for £195. If you’ve got the itch, there’s really no excuse not to scratch it.
- Reference: A Perfectly Useless Afternoon – Mechanical
- Case Size: 40mm
- Material: Stainless Steel
- International Recommended Retail Price: £595
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to MrJonesWatches.com!
CIGA Design Blue Planet II
One of my personal favourites on this list is the CIGA Design Blue Planet – in this case, the Mark II. A Chinese brand founded in 2012, CIGA Design is quickly reshaping what ‘Made in China’ means in the watchmaking world, producing spectacular pieces of haute horlogerie at surprisingly accessible price points. While they’ve released a number of other eye-catching collections, it was the lugless, pebble-cased Blue Planet that truly set them apart. So much so that it won the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2021 GPHG – a massive achievement, given that the event is often referred to as the Oscars of watchmaking. To this day, CIGA Design remains one of the very few Chinese brands to receive such recognition.
So, how do you tell the time on this thing? Well, that’s easy – sort of. Focus on the compass star set against the CNC-engraved relief of the Earth. The northern needle points to the exact minute and hour, read off the two concentric rings surrounding the globe. As time passes (or as you rotate the crown), the Earth and the minute track rotate in an asynchronous motion to line up with the correct numeral on the outer periphery. Sounds confusing, right? Maybe at first – but once you’ve got it on your wrist, it quickly becomes second nature.
- Reference: Blue Planet II – Steel/Titanium Alloy
- Case Size: 43mm/46mm
- Material: Stainless Steel/Titanium Alloy
- International Recommended Retail Price: US$1,199 (Steel)/US$1,399 (Titanium Alloy)
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to CIGADesign.com!
Alterum Worldtimer
This watch is a completely new discovery for me. As the algorithms of social media tighten their grip on my livelihood, every now and then they manage to serve up a horological gem. The Alterum Worldtimer, created by the same man behind the microbrand Marin, is one of those rare finds – a delightfully minimalistic surprise unlike anything else I’ve really come across. And at this point, it’s not easy to surprise me.
The design is based on four concentric discs, placing everything on the same plane for an ultra-minimalist aesthetic. Time is read via the central minutes line, with the hours shown by a circle, and the red line above indicating the 24-hour scale. Instead of a conventional GMT hand, the second time zone is tied directly to the outer worldtimer ring, allowing the wearer to dynamically set their reference city on the fly.
The result is a beautifully sculpted, modernist timepiece that looks as though it was lifted straight from the Guggenheim. I can’t stop staring at it – from the precision finishing on the rings, to the grooved bracelet, to the clever dual-crown system. It’s a perfect case study in how minimalism, when done right, can still surprise in the world of watchmaking.
- Reference: 1 (Worldtimer Discovery)
- Case Size: 38.5mm
- Material: Stainless Steel
- International Recommended Retail Price: US$3315 (Limited to 100 References, Sold Out)
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to AlterumWatchCo.com!
Bell & Ross BR-03 Astro
Finally, we arrive at familiar brand territory – though not so familiar watch territory – with the French brand Bell & Ross. Since its founding in the early ’90s, the dynamic duo of Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo have worked to carve out a unique niche in the watch industry. It’s no easy feat, especially in today’s saturated market, but time and again they’ve proven themselves up to the challenge.
Case in point: the BR-03 Astro. While it shares the same black ceramic silhouette as the rest of the BR-03 family, this reference abandons all pretence of being a professional aviation instrument. Instead, it ventures somewhere altogether different – pun fully intended. The dial depicts the Earth, along with the Moon, Mars, and an orbiting satellite, each serving to indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds. All of this is set against a backdrop of glittering aventurine, evoking the night sky. The BR-03 Astro is proof that even the most professional of watchmaking brands can let loose – and do it brilliantly.
Related Reading: This New Bell & Ross BR-03 Astro Has Us Starstruck
- Reference: BR03A-EMM-CE/SRB
- Case Size: 41mm
- Material: Black Ceramic
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$7,700 (Limited to 999 references)
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to BellRoss.com!
Trilobe Une Folle Journée Dune
Okay, now things start to get a little strange – in the best possible way. And what better way to begin this chapter of the list than with a truly unique creation from independent watchmaker Trilobe? Translating to ‘a crazy day‘ in French, the Une Folle Journée is one of the weirdest yet most wonderful timepieces you’ll ever come across. Like the CIGA Design and Alterum before it, it tells the time using three concentric rings for the hours, minutes and seconds, working from the outside in. A small red indicator shows you where to look for the reading – though let’s be honest, you’re not buying this watch for precision.
Housed in an 18k white gold case and topped with a dramatic domed crystal, the Une Folle Journée features a completely open dial – a first for the brand. Through it, you can admire the in-house X-Centric movement in all its glory, while the Jetsons-esque rings spin hypnotically in motion. It’s mesmerising, futuristic, and just plain fun. It’s also why I picked it for my dream three-watch collection not too long ago – and I can safely say it’s not leaving anytime soon.
Related Reading: What’s Your Ultimate Three-Watch Collection?
- Reference: UFJ01GD
- Case Size: 40.5mm
- Material: Titanium
- International Recommended Retail Price: €24,480
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to Trilobe.com!
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ti Blue
Of course, what would this list be without the Return of the Mack? When you think of watches without hands, there’s really only one name that should come to mind first: the Ulysse Nardin Freak. For those in the know, the Freak needs no introduction. For those who aren’t, I’ve linked an article below that explains why this masterful monstrosity deserves your full attention.
Related Reading: The Legacy Of Iconic Watch Designs – Ulysse Nardin Freak
Assuming you’ve caught up, you’ll now understand what makes the Freak line so unique. Where other watches on this list have done away with hands, the Freak takes things a step further by removing the dial – and most of the movement – altogether. Instead, the movement itself becomes the display: it sits atop a rotating carousel that indicates the minutes, while the hours are marked by a disc driven by the unwinding of the mainspring barrel.
This particular model, the Freak X, is a more modern interpretation, complete with a crown and automatic winding system. All-in-all, though, the Freak is an iconic design that has not only stood the test of time, but has also driven genuine horological innovation – most notably Ulysse Nardin’s pioneering use of silicon escapements.
- Reference: 2303-270-03
- Case Size: 43mm
- Material: Titanium
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$45,200
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to Ulysse-Nardin.com!
Urwerk UR-100 LS
Now that we’re properly into the back half of the list, there’s no better brand to kick things up a notch than Urwerk. Founded in the late ’90s, Urwerk has carved out a reputation for creating hyper-futuristic timepieces that are as mechanically ingenious as they are visually striking. Whether you’re a wealthy enthusiast seeking something truly different, a not-so-wealthy enthusiast who just loves to nerd out about horology (yours truly), or simply someone obsessed with techwear and neo-futuristic aesthetics, chances are you’ve glanced in Urwerk’s direction at some point.
From insect-inspired cases to dinosaur-inspired designs, Urwerk’s portfolio is full of imagination. One of the most fascinating examples is the UR-100V Lightspeed. Featuring the brand’s signature satellite hours complication, time is read through an hour numeral that travels across the arc of the dial before disappearing from view, making way for the next one. Staying true to its spacefaring theme, the Lightspeed also incorporates a planetarium display showing the eight planets of our solar system – and serves as a reminder that Pluto has been demoted. Complete with the highly complex UR12.02 movement, a carbon frame, and an abstract design, the UR-100V Lightspeed is ready for any adventure — from land, to air, and all the way to infinity and beyond.
Related Reading: Urwerk Blends Science & Fiction With The New UR-100V Lightspeed
- Reference: UR-100 LS
- Case Size: 43mm
- Material: Black Carbon
- International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 65,000
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to Urwerk.com!
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Pont des Amoureux
Though typically associated with some of the finest jewellery the world has ever seen, Van Cleef & Arpels are no strangers to watchmaking. In fact, they’ve been crafting timepieces almost as long as Rolex, beginning their first forays into horology in 1923. Yet, they’ve always managed to keep their core identity intact through the watches they create.
One of the best examples of this – and one of my favourite watches of all time – is the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Pont des Amoureux. Initially launched in 2010 and translating to ‘Lover’s Bridge’ from French, the watch cleverly employs a double retrograde complication: not simply to tell the time, but to tell the tale of a bittersweet romance. Depicting the Pont des Arts in Paris, Madame Hours and Monsieur Minutes draw ever closer to one another, meeting every time the clock strikes twelve – only to part as quickly as they meet, spending the next twelve hours on their journey to reunite, either at noon or at midnight.
While it is beautifully engineered and finished, it’s also one of the very few timepieces that truly embody how a watch can tell a story. And if you’d like to enhance the moodiness of the watch, I’d suggest exploring it while listening to Me and Mrs. Jones by Billy Paul. But don’t linger too long in melancholy – since 2017, Van Cleef & Arpels have added an automaton complication that allows the couple to dash across the bridge and share a romantic kiss at the push of a button.
- Reference: VCARO90000
- Case Size: 42mm
- Material: 18k White Gold
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$231,000
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to VanCleefArpels.com!
H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Watch Minute Repeater Concept Black
Going from heartachingly romantic to delightfully tongue-in-cheek, we arrive at this incredible piece from H. Moser & Cie. While they are known for their ‘Very Rare’ timepieces and unique designs, they are perhaps one of the most serious – and simultaneously least serious – watchmaking brands in history. On countless occasions, they’ve played the voluntary class clown of the watch world: from creating a watch entirely out of Swiss cheese to blatantly combining eight different brands into one Frankenstein creation (and facing the legal consequences of such), there seems to be no end to H. Moser & Cie.’s spectacular horology – or their equally spectacular antics.
The Swiss Alp collection, however, might just be their most popular product to date. Let’s get the elephant out of the room first – it’s obviously meant to mock the Apple Watch. Conceived as a brazen act of defiance against the rise of the smartwatch, the Swiss Alp draws inspiration from modern tech to create something entirely its own. Yet the craftsmanship goes far beyond simple trolling. The stark black case and dial, while echoing the shape and screen of its ‘smart’ contemporary, transcends batteries and heart-rate monitors. Instead, this version is entirely analogue, featuring only a tourbillon at six o’clock. Built as a reminder of the perpetual motion of traditional watchmaking, time is read exclusively through the minute repeater complication of the HMC 901 movement.
- Reference: 5901-0301
- Case Size: 38.9mm
- Material: 925 Platinum
- International Recommended Retail Price: US$350,000
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to H-Moser.com!
Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse
Finally, if you thought the last piece wasn’t mysterious enough, wait until you see this. Parmigiani Fleurier is a name that few will be familiar with, yet their influence on the wider watch industry is palpable. Their movement company, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, produces movements and components for brands widely considered among the very best in the world. If Richard Mille is Muhammad Ali, Parmigiani Fleurier would be Cus D’Amato.
Here, they present one of their finest creations yet – the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, or The Armorial Mysterious Rehearsal. Like the H. Moser, the L’Armoriale lacks a traditional dial, instead featuring a pastel green grand feu enamel surface enhanced by a guilloché pattern inspired by Fibonacci spirals. Complementing this elegant silhouette is an innovative cathedral gong system within the movement wrapped twice around it to achieve exceptional resonance and intensity. Each chime is meant to evoke the grand bells of a cathedral, perpetuating the timeless legacy of minute repeaters past.
Yet, it is also a touch more practical than the H. Moser, thanks to a pair of rose gold ‘H’ and ‘M’ indicators that orbit the back of the case for precise time-setting. If you’re lucky enough to encounter one of the five pieces ever made – or happen to have a spare million or so lying around – this is a watch worth investigating.
- Reference: PFH990-2010001-300181
- Case Size: 41.6mm
- Material: 18k White Gold
- International Recommended Retail Price: Upon Request