The Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Rose Gold is a timepiece that blends vintage-inspired design with modern execution and just the right amount of flair. From the case finishing to the tri-compax sector dial, this watch doesn’t just look good, it feels special on the wrist!
What We Love
- The rose gold PVD finish truly enhances the watch’s luxurious appeal with the various finishes on the case.
- Sector dial layout with tri-compax subdials that balance complexity with elegance.
- Vintage-inspired design reimagined with modern-day elegance.
What We Don’t
- The leather strap feels limiting for daily wear due to long-term durability concerns.
- No clasp option offered. Constant use of the pin buckle can wear out the strap quicker.
- The case may look thick from the side, which might put off some wearers despite wearing slimmer in person
Overall Rating: 8.9/10
- Value for Money: 9/10
- Wearability: 8.5/10
- Design: 9/10
- Build Quality: 9/10
It was only two short years ago that Raymond Weil unveiled their Millésimecollection. Raymond Weil’s creative elegance, innovative technology, and Swiss-made excellence were all rolled into one collection. The brand paid homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology, which can easily be seen through the vintage-inspired case and dial design.
The Millésime collection pays tribute to the golden age of watchmaking from the 1930s to 1960s. The word Millésime, meaning “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, couldn’t be more fitting for this collection’s spirit. The collection’s introduction marked a bold yet nostalgic new chapter for the brand, one that would see them win a Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) at the end of 2023.
“As the third generation leading the company established by my grandfather nearly 50 years ago in Geneva, winning this award in our hometown is a true privilege. Another wholehearted thank you goes to my team, who work hard every day to create exceptional timepieces that combine tradition and innovation.” –
Elie Bernheim, CEO
What made this collection make an impression, and of course, win the prestigious GPHG award, was the beautifully proportioned case with its finely brushed and polished surfaces, the signature sector dial design with clean symmetrical layout, to the domed glass-box sapphire crystal. All these different elements drew inspiration from vintage timepieces of the early 20th century, and it was clear that Raymond Weil wanted to deliver vintage design without compromising on quality and modern craftsmanship.
Then in 2024, the brand unveiled the next expansion of the Millésime collection. During Watches & Wonders 2024, Raymond Weil introduced the Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph timepieces. These new timepieces brought mechanical complexity and a sportier appeal to the collection, while still keeping the vintage design intact. With a tri-counter layout along with new dial colours, the chronograph gave the Millésime collection depth, while also enhancing its versatility.
During Watches & Wonders 2025, Raymond Weil dropped a fresh new take on the Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph, and this time, it turned heads in a big way! This was the first time that the Tri-Compax model was presented in a rose gold PVD-coated case. It was a bold design that enhanced the elegance and luxury of this sporty chronograph. This is a timepiece that commands attention without ever feeling over the top.
Initial Thoughts
I have to say that although Raymond Weil’s Millésime collection is prize-winning, it didn’t initially connect with me personally. While I love the vitange-inspired case design and the Tri-Compax sector dial layout, I think the colour combinations of the current models were one aspect that didn’t really leave a lasting impression for me.
However, this all changed at this year’s Watches and Wonders, when the brand released three new versions of the Millésime Tri-Compax chronographs. I was in charge of writing the press article for this release, and when I first saw the gold-coated model, honestly, I was left speechless by how stunning it looked. The colour combination for this entire timepiece was executed perfectly. The press images only drove my curiosity for this timepiece deeper — and I knew I had to try this piece on in person.
I immediately fell in love with the watch and asked the Watchadvice crew on the ground — Chamath and Matt — to take a series of hands-on photos so I could see what it looked like outside of the press images. I finally had the chance to take this timepiece for review a few weeks ago, and honestly, I fell in love at first sight (well, second sight, since I’d already seen it through the press release!).
Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph Case Design
The Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph is housed in a vintage-inspired 39mm x 12.9mm thick case and glass box crystal. This vintage-inspired glass-box sapphire crystal is a design that is rooted in vintage watches from the 1950s and 1960s, where the crystal would sit proudly atop the bezel, giving a domed, display-like effect. The design of the case is a beautiful nod to the past, now executed with modern elegance and refinement.
I especially like how this vintage-style design, with the curved lugs and vintage-style chronograph pump pushers, gives a beautiful aesthetic to the overall case. The case has a sandwich-type construction, where the middle part consists of the lugs and side face, the top features the polished and chamfered bezel with a domed sapphire crystal, and the bottom is the caseback.
What makes the case design really command presence for me, though, is the variety of finishes you can see throughout it. First of all, starting with the bezel, the sides have a beautiful, mirror-like polished finish, while the top surface features a satin-brushed finish that shines beautifully when rotated under different lighting angles. The case sides have a horizontal satin-brushed finish, which perfectly complements the crown and the chronograph pushers, both of which have a mirror-like polish. The surface of the lugs also continues to dazzle, with the top surface featuring a polished finish, while the sides maintain that horizontal satin-brushed texture.
What also helps this case pop visually is the contrast the rose gold creates against the black sector dial and the black leather strap. Black and gold are one of my favourite colour combinations, especially on a watch, and this really hammers home that contrasting, elegant aesthetic. I’ve received plenty of compliments while wearing it, particularly for its ability to shine beautifully under different lighting angles.
Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph Dial Design
One of the core concepts of Raymond Weil’s award-winning Millésime collection is the sector dial. This is once again a vintage-inspired design that dates back to around the 1930s. Sector dials were characterised by the clean symmetrical layouts, which were divided into sections or “sectors” using fine lines. For the Millésime Chronograph models by Raymond Weil, it keeps the crisp symmetrical “structure” while adding the complexity of the tri-compax chronograph, bringing together elegance and functionality.
What made this particular Millésime Chronograph steal the show compared to the other models in Raymond Weil’s Millésime collection is the combination of the black and white-colours, along with the rose gold case. I think all three colours work beautifully together to create an elegant and contrasting aesthetic.
When I finally got the watch in for review, it was honestly one of the most well-built and beautifully aesthetic chronographs I’ve held in a while. It screams sophistication with the dial’s Tri-compax sector layout. However, as mentioned previously, elegance is also something that hasn’t been overlooked on the dial.
To me personally, even though the chronograph dial looks complex with its multiple scales on the outer dial, including a tachymeter and a minute track, the tri-counter sub-dial layout has been very well thought out. It includes a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a constant 60-seconds counter at 9 o’clock. All three counters, I feel, have been smartly executed because they aren’t overly large or overpowering. This ensures that the overall aesthetic of the dial doesn’t look as crowded or complicated as it might seem at first glance.
Another aesthetic that I love about the dial is the rose gold-coated chronograph hands, hour and minute hands, and the chronograph seconds hand against the black dial. These hands scream elegance and luxury as they contrast beautifully against the dark aesthetic. If you hold the timepiece at just the right angle, the light reflects beautifully off these hands and gives a luxurious shine.
Raymond Weil RW5030 Movement
Inside the Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph sits the automatic mechanical Calibre RW5030 movement. Based on the Sellita SWS510 movement, this cam-style chronograph movement is able to operate at a high frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) while giving out a solid power reserve of 62 hours.
The open caseback gives a view of the Calibre RW5030 movement. For the price you’re paying for this timepiece — which is currently approximately (CHECK) — I feel like the caseback finishing is sufficient in its execution. While it doesn’t have the high-end luxury finishes such as Geneva stripes or perlage, it does showcase a lot of the movement, including the various gears and the balance wheel.
I like this kind of finishing, especially with the skeletonized rotor designed to reflect the Raymond Weil logo; it gives a bit more of a view into the movement. One of the highlights of the open caseback on the Raymond Weil Millésime Chronograph is that when you engage the chronograph pushers, you can actually see the levers moving through the caseback. When the chronograph is started, the chronograph operating level (cam lever) engages, initiating the chronograph mechanism. You can visibly see that interaction in real time through the movement.
Then, when you push the chronograph start pusher again to stop the timer, you can see the operating lever through the caseback disengage from the cam. Finally, when you press the reset chronograph pusher to reset the timer, the hammer comes down onto the heart-shaped cams located on each chronograph wheel, which instantly resets the hands back to zero. This mechanical charm of seeing all the levers and cams in action makes the timepiece even more engaging for enthusiasts who love seeing how the movements work. I can also say safely that this visual poetry is not something that is available in every open caseback mechanical timepiece.
How Does The Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph Wear?
On the wrist, the Raymond Weil Chronograph wears really well — but I think I already knew that going in. Knowing its case size proportions of 39mm x 12.9mm thick and lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, I’ve always wanted to review a watch with this kind of vintage-inspired case design, and it certainly hasn’t disappointed. While the watch may appear thick when looking at it side-on or reading the specs, that’s certainly not the case in real-world wear. It’s a chronograph you can definitely feel on the wrist, but it doesn’t carry the weight or bulk that you’d expect. The lugs taper right onto the edge of my wrist, allowing the leather alligator strap to sit with a perfectly snug and comfortable fit.
The genuine calf leather strap with the rose gold pin buckle is a great touch, and the black colour definitely helps make the rose gold case stand out even more perfectly. Honestly, I think this is the perfect strap choice for this timepiece, as it really does allow it to catch attention from afar. One thing to note, however, is that while I’d honestly wear this timepiece daily, the limitations of the leather strap make that a bit tricky. You have to be more cautious about the leather wearing out with constant use.
This is where Raymond Weil could offer something different, by having extra strap options for models like this. For example, offering a clasp instead of a pin buckle would make it a lot easier to take on and off, further enhancing the daily wearability of this timepiece. Because for as long as I’ve had this watch, I’ve been constantly wearing it, and that can obviously put a bit of strain on the leather strap when you’re frequently buckling and unbuckling it.
As I’ve mentioned earlier, this is one timepiece that I’ve received plenty of compliments on, and I can understand why, as it just catches attention effortlessly with any outfit you wear. You can dress it down casually with just a T-shirt, or you can dress it up for more formal occasions, whether it’s with a suit or even smart casual with a blazer. I’ve had the chance to wear this timepiece to a wedding, dinners, and brunch, covering a broad range of events, and not only did I love having it on my wrist, but I’m pretty sure it loved the attention too!
This truly highlights the versatility of the timepiece. The black and rose gold colour scheme is a tried-and-tested combination that works extremely well and gives off that vintage, luxury appeal. On the wrist, this timepiece looks like something far more expensive than it actually is, which is always a bonus.
Final Thoughts
Raymond Weil’s latest Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph in rose gold PVD is the perfect example of how a brand can honour traditional watchmaking while still staying relevant in today’s watch market. From the timepiece’s vintage-inspired case construction to the sector dial with tri-counter layout, the execution of this watch shows that the brand isn’t just creating vintage-inspired timepieces just for the sake of nostalgia.
While the existing colours of the Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph are certainly tasteful and well-executed, it’s this latest rose gold PVD variant that stands out the most for me, as I feel it truly brings the collection to life. The rose gold elements add warmth, contrast, and a level of luxury that elevates the entire wearing experience. Sometimes, all it takes is the right colour combination to completely change your perception of a watch — and for me, this was that moment.
This is a timepiece that I’ve received plenty of positive feedback on, not just from fellow watch enthusiasts, but also from people who don’t usually notice watches. Whether it’s the light bouncing off from the polished surfaces, the rose gold hands catching a subtle glint, or the visually engaging movement that’s ticking away underneath, there’s charm behind this timepiece that speaks to enthusiasts or wearers alike.
And if I’m being completely honest, after spending some time with Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph for this review, I liked the watch so much that I went out and bought one for myself. That probably says more than any review ever could!
Specification: Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Tri-Compax Chronograph Black Sector Dial (Ref:7765-PC5-20631)
- Dimensions: 39mm x 12.9mm thick x 46mm lug-to-lug distance
- Case Material: Stainless steel with rose gold PVD coating
- Dial: Reverse panda, black dial, white counters and white SLN indexes with Super-Luminova®
- Water Resistance: 50m (5 Bar)
- Movement: Mechanical chronograph self-winding movement – RW5030
- Movement Power reserve: 62 hours operating at 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Crystal: Glassbox sapphire crystal with dual-sided antireflective coating on both sides
- Bracelet/Strap: Black genuine calf leather with rose gold PVD-coated traditional buckle