With Louis Vuitton becoming more involved with the watch world than ever, what better way to further ingratiate themselves than to celebrate the creativity of the industry? Here are my favourite semi-finalists from the brand’s annual haute horlogerie ceremony!
There’s that word again: haute horlogerie. Meaning ‘high horology’ in French, the term typically denotes the very best form of watchmaking. Whether it’s through artistic mastery, engineering prowess, or mad scientist-level innovation, to have your work classified as haute horlogerie is a tremendous honour in and of itself.
This notion is deeply embedded throughout the watch community and has even caught the attention of some of the industry’s biggest players — including Louis Vuitton. Under the leadership of Watch Division Director Jean Arnault, Louis Vuitton has been making serious waves by redefining what a fashion house can accomplish in the world of horology. Gone are the days of smoke and mirrors; in their place is a renewed focus on traditional, hard-hitting craftsmanship.
But what good is focusing on tradition if you don’t celebrate what’s happening around you? Jean Arnault and Louis Vuitton seem to agree — and their answer is the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Launched just last year, this prestigious award invites independent horologists from all over the world to submit their work for evaluation across five key criteria: Design & Aesthetics, Creativity & Audacity, Technical Innovation, Details & Finishing, and Complexity.
Last year’s winner, Raúl Pagès — a Spanish-Swiss watchmaker — took home the inaugural prize for his incredible RP1. Now, in its second edition, the Prize is once again up for grabs. Twenty talented watchmakers have reached the semi-final stage, but competition is fierce: only five will advance to the finals. We at Watch Advice are following the developments closely, but while we eagerly await the official shortlist, allow me to make my predictions on who might get the nod from the judges!
If you are interested in seeing the full list of semi-finalists, don’t hesitate to check it out at LouisVuittonWatchPrize.com!
Reuben Schoots Series Two
What kind of Australians would we be if we didn’t cheer on our homegrown talent? Reuben Schoots is a watchmaker from our very own capital city — Canberra, ACT. Captivated by the world of horology through the legendary works of George Daniels, Schoots set out to create his own timepieces — a feat rarely seen in the Great Southern Land in recent memory. While his most ambitious project — a pocket watch crafted entirely using the Daniels Method — is still in progress, that hasn’t stopped him from producing other exceptional works of horology in the meantime.
One of these creations is the Series Two, which has earned a place in the semi-finals of Louis Vuitton’s prestigious watchmaking competition. While it may appear modest at first glance, the process behind it is anything but. Every single element — from the hands to the case and movement — was entirely designed and crafted by Schoots himself. While this level of craftsmanship might be expected from established haute horlogerie maisons, it represents a landmark achievement in the still-nascent history of Australian watchmaking. And true to form, Reuben has added his own distinct flair to the piece, including a unique flaked finish on the dial developed within his workshop.
It seems, then, that Reuben Schoots stands at the forefront of Australian horology, leading the way alongside a growing field of minor and emerging brands. By earning a spot among the top twenty in this prestigious competition, he hasn’t just marked a personal milestone; he’s set a new benchmark for what Australian watchmaking could look like in the years to come.
For more information, head on over to ReubenSchoots.com!
Fam Al Hut Möbius
This is a watch I’ve been waiting a long time to talk about. While I’ve been holding my breath in anticipation, the Chinese brand Fam Al Hut has been hard at work crafting a truly remarkable masterpiece. Named after the brightest star in the constellation Piscis Austrinus — Fomalhaut — the brand, led by Lukas Young and Xinyan Dai, has a singular ambition: to cement China’s place on the map of haute horlogerie.
With the introduction of the Möbius, and its subsequent nomination for this year’s Louis Vuitton Watch Prize, I believe Fam Al Hut has taken a bold step in redefining what Chinese watchmaking can achieve. In recent years, the outdated stigma surrounding ‘Made in China’ has steadily faded, and the Möbius stands as a striking testament to just how far things have come. Inspired by the infinite journey of the Möbius strip, the watch is a technical and artistic triumph, housed in a boldly postmodern form. With its double retrograde time display, bi-axis tourbillon, and pill-shaped case, it’s unlike anything I — or many others — have ever encountered.
Having followed Fam Al Hut’s journey closely, I’m not only thrilled with what they’ve already accomplished, but also incredibly eager to see what lies ahead. Regardless of how the Prize unfolds, the Möbius has already proven that Chinese haute horlogerie has arrived — and it’s here to stay. With a design language this distinct, Fam Al Hut has thrown down the gauntlet, challenging even the most established manufactories to keep pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.
For more information, head on over to FamAlHut.com!
Hazemann & Monnin School Watch
When it comes to the creation of haute horlogerie timepieces, there are a few essential elements that immediately come to mind. Naturally, there’s the engineering aspect — the precision mechanics and technical mastery — as well as the perfection of design and aesthetics. But beyond those measurable factors, there’s something else. A certain X-factor. An intangible quality that sets a timepiece apart from the rest.
Sometimes, the magic of watchmaking can be traced back to a single visionary — but as the saying goes, “It takes two to make a thing go right!” In this case, it was the combined genius of watchmaking friends Alexandre Hazemann and Victor Monnin that brought forth something truly special. Together, they created the School Watch — a limited-production, regulator-style timepiece featuring a Sonnerie au Passage avec Heure Sautante Instantanée. For those less fluent in horological French, that means the watch delivers an hourly chime paired with an instantaneous jumping hour complication.
The School Watch was so impressive, in fact, that it earned them top honours at the 2023 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition. Technically, Alexandre Hazemann was the official recipient of the award, but neither man sees it that way. For them, it was — and always will be — a shared achievement, born out of equal parts friendship and talent. Pictured above is Monnin’s interpretation of the School Watch, which looks to be the sole piece submitted for the competition — perhaps a light-hearted way to ensure Hazemann wasn’t the only one with a trophy.
In any case, the School Watch by Hazemann & Monnin offers a wonderfully fresh take in the world of independent watchmaking. More than just a technical marvel, it’s a testament to the kind of creative partnership and camaraderie that can only exist in this passionate community. Now if only another brand out there thought of their watchmakers as… Friends?
For more information, head on over to @HazemannMonnin on Instagram!
Behrens Kung Fu
When it comes to pushing the boundaries of Chinese watchmaking, Fam Al Hut certainly deserves a share of the spotlight. But they shouldn’t have all the credit — especially given the growing wave of Chinese-made timepieces making a genuine impact on the industry. And no, I’m not talking about cheap clones or homage pieces. Take Behrens, for example: a brand that has emerged as one of the nation’s pre-eminent leaders in forward-thinking horology.
Though still relatively young in the watch industry — having been founded in 2012 by Lin Bingqiang — Behrens has made significant waves in the world of contemporary horology. The Shenzhen-based brand quickly found its stride by offering spectacularly designed yet accessible timepieces, with standout models like the Starship and Orion gaining global attention. More recently, Behrens has made headlines by breaking records, notably with the debut of the Ultra-Light 20g and 11g, two of the lightest watches ever produced.
But in the case of the Kung Fu, the brand’s true mastery of the craft is fully on display. Created in collaboration with watchmaker Qian Guobiao, the Kung Fu embodies the spirit of Chinese martial arts and draws upon the deep cultural heritage of Behrens’ homeland. Ornamental and steeped in tradition, yet undeniably modern in execution, the Kung Fu’s bold aesthetic and technical craftsmanship have elevated it to a place of high regard — particularly in the eyes of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Having only recently worn a Behrens for the first time, I can confidently say that these guys are about as serious as it gets, and I wish them nothing but the best going forward from this prestigious competition!
For more information, head on over to BehrensWatches.com!
David Candaux DC6 Titanium
Speaking of watchmakers I’ve been following for quite some time, David Candaux is another name on my Instagram list that I’ve always had a deep respect for. I’ve always had a soft spot for unique designs (and I’m also a big fan of bears), so when Candaux’s bear-emblazoned timepieces appeared during one of my late-night doomscrolling sessions, I couldn’t help but take a closer look.
Like all things in the watch industry, there’s always more than meets the eye — and Candaux’s creations are unlikely to disappoint. A delightfully asymmetrical watch, the DC6 continues the standards he set with his earlier invention, the DC1. Inspired by the designs of 18th and 19th century timekeeping devices, Candaux adopts the ‘half-hunter’ design principle to both protect and uniquely showcase the time displays.
At three o’clock, the time is housed within a small domed dial, while at nine o’clock lies a thirty-degree inclined tourbillon beneath a similarly domed crystal. Above sits a beautifully executed power reserve indicator, and below… the crown? That’s another element that immediately drew me to Candaux’s work — in all my time marvelling at watches, I’ve never seen a vertically integrated crown before! And yes, of course all of this is made by Candaux himself!
All in all, this is one of the most impressive combinations of technical excellence and singular artistry I’ve ever seen in a watch. Sure, it’s not decorated with gold or jewels, and it doesn’t have an automaton dragon that breathes fire — but the DC6 challenges watchmaking conventions in a way far beyond what most big-brand marketing teams can even begin to promise. It’s a beautiful and surprising way to display and tell time, and for that reason, it has my vote going into the finals.