Credor adds yet another reference to its flock of incredible timepieces! Instead of remastering a classic, though, they’ve taken to the skies for inspiration with this masterpiece.
Since their foundation in 1974, Credor – its name derived from the French Créte d’Or (peak of gold) – has focused solely on delivering some of the most spectacular timepieces Japan has to offer. However, when it comes to the upper echelons of haute horlogerie, Credor is surprisingly not as often spoken about as some of the other greats. Sure, it’s a rare bird in the horological hall of fame, largely due to its remarkable scarcity outside of Japan. I suppose, then, it’s simply because the brand doesn’t subscribe to froofy marketing or the creation of ‘flex’ watches, instead allowing its craftsmanship to speak for itself.
And how better to prove my point than with this latest release from the Seiko Group brand? This year, they introduce the all-new Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon, reference GBCF999, which marks yet another major achievement in the history of Credor. But what exactly makes this watch so horologically significant? Well, much of it lies in the Goldfeather collection – an intriguing name that defined a significant chapter in the Seiko Group’s history.
First debuting under the Seiko name in 1960 – fourteen years before the conception of Credor – the Goldfeather line became Japan’s answer to the elegant dress watches coming out of Switzerland and Germany. Launching as the world’s thinnest three-hand mechanical watch, the Goldfeather was refined, bright, and light as a feather – hence the name. It paved the way for the Japanese watch industry and earned the nation considerable respect as a rising powerhouse in the horological world.
While the paradigm-shifting days of the original Goldfeather line are long behind it, Seiko Group revived the name in 2023 under the Credor banner. Today, the craftsmen at Credor maintain the elegant spirit of the Goldfeather with a series of ultra-thin timepieces that stay true to the collection’s original intent. That said, it doesn’t mean they can’t go all out every now and then – which is exactly what they’ve done with this new release!
The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon measures a universally wearable 38.6mm in width and 45.2mm in length, with a slim 8.6mm thickness. Its minimalist polished case belies the density of its platinum construction, adding both metaphorical – and literal – weight to the wearing experience. Here, the case also serves as the perfect frame for the artistry of the dial. Set against a backdrop of Urushi black lacquer (Urushi being a lacquer derived from the sap of a Japanese tree), the dial depicts a flock of birds taking flight in an anticlockwise direction.
The process of adding these birds involves two intricate techniques: Raden (螺鈿), which sees the bird shapes inlaid into the dial using multicoloured mother-of-pearl; and Kirikane (截金), which, to my understanding, involves applying an additional layer of gold onto the dial that is then shaved down to achieve the desired colour and texture. The result is a dizzying display of refined artistry, all thanks to Urushi lacquer artisan Isshu Tamura. He also ensured that the three and six o’clock positions remain easily identifiable — look for the larger pink and green birds, respectively.
One more technique is used atop the dial: Maki-e (蒔絵). Involving the inlay of minuscule gold flecks, it creates the brilliant sparkle surrounding the edge of the nine o’clock tourbillon cage. Symbolising the radiance of the sun, the tourbillon — and its wing-shaped bridge — serve as yet another captivating focal point.
Speaking of the tourbillon, the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon marks the first time in the collection’s 65-year history that this fabled complication has ever been used. Powered by the all-new Calibre 6850 movement, the tourbillon is not only a dazzling horological feature but also a testament to the timepiece’s remarkable accuracy. Beating at 3Hz (21,600 VpH) with a respectable 66-hour power reserve, it’s clear that this new movement has been treated with the utmost care and respect.
Related Reading: The Art of Complications – Tourbillons
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the Cal. 6850 has been delicately hand-engraved with the primary feathers that generate lift as a bird takes off. Varying in depth and texture, the engraving almost steals the spotlight from the delicate green feather set beside the movement. Here, both Raden and Maki-e techniques are employed once again, with the green hue derived from the shell of a Yakougai (夜光貝) — the green turban snail — which, funnily enough, can often be found right here in Queensland.
My Thoughts
I do delight in being a bit of a contrarian in the watch world. Part of me recognises that it’s a little hipster — purposefully liking watches outside the cultural mainstream because it’s cool — but another part of me genuinely wants more people (like you!) to discover the incredible world of horology beyond what you typically see in advertisements.
But it’s always been a bit of a challenge with Credor. It’s hard to justify a watch like the Eichi II, for example, if neither you or the person you’re talking to don’t really understand the significance or the body of work behind it. At that point, it just looks like every other watch. As much as I love Credor for its air of obscure elegance, I do believe that even the most understated haute horlogerie brands should cut loose every now and then.
I think that’s what changes with this new release. Credor never really had that bombastic statement piece — the ‘oomph’ watch, if you will. But now, with the Goldfeather Tourbillon in tow, the greater watch world may finally begin to take notice. Between the remarkable artistry, the on-trend wearability, and the insane in-house movement, how could it not? So, when the internet starts blowing up later on about how amazing Credor is, you can bet I’ll be there, shaking my fist, proudly declaring, “I knew about Credor before it was cool!”
Reference: GBCF999
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 38.6mm case diameter x 45.2mm lug-to-lug x 8.6mm thickness
- Case Material: 950 platinum
- Dial: Black Urushi lacquer with mother-of-pearl inlay (Raden/螺鈿), gold plate inlay (Kirikane/截金), & gold sprinkling inlay (Maki-e/蒔絵)
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. 6850 with tourbillon complication, radial feather engraving, mother-of-pearl inlay (Raden/螺鈿), gold sprinkling inlay (Maki-e/蒔絵)
- Power Reserve: 60h
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Black alligator leather with 950 platinum butterfly clasp