A canvas of marble, a marvel of mechanics. Bvlgari once again blurs the line between art and engineering!
Few collections in modern watchmaking have helped shape the world of haute horology as much as Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo. This is a collection that brings together Italian artistry with record-breaking ultra-thin engineering. The astonishing part of this collection is that it has achieved 10 world-records in just 11 years for ultra-thin timepieces.
Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo collection first debuted in 2014, and since then, it has been redefining modern watchmaking design. The collection has a signature design that makes it immediately recognisable. Designed by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the Octo Finissimo is infused with Italian style, featuring a geometrical case design with an octagonal shape rooted in Roman architecture. This design forms a core part of the Octo Finissimo’s DNA, one that Bvlgari doesn’t compromise regardless of how thin the timepiece is.
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is just one facet of the Octo Finissimo story, one that has also broken many records. In 2020, Bvlgari released the world’s thinnest tourbillon and chronograph timepiece, with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic only measuring 7.40mm in thickness! This was an incredible achievement, considering that the timepiece features dual complications, with one being the tourbillon. Then shortly after this, Bvlgari took ultra-thin watchmaking to another level. After a brief stint from Piaget, who released a record-breaking 2mm Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon timepiece, Bvlgari answered swiftly with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, released in 2022, a timepiece that measured an astonishing 1.85mm!
With the record for the thinnest tourbillon timepiece still firmly in place for Bvlgari, the brand has now explored other avenues in upgrading this mechanical masterpiece. Now, Bvlgari is perfecting the aesthetic side of the timepiece, whilst still keeping the watch to a modest 4.85mm thick. This latest iteration, now donned in green marble, is a bold celebration of Italian artistry, bringing natural stone into haute horology with stunning results.
This isn’t the first time that Bvlgari has explored marble in its watch designs either. They have a history of using natural stone for their dials. The recent standout release is the Bvlgari Bvlgari 50th anniversary edition with Blu Incanto/Azzurro Infinito blue marble and the Octo Roma line, which featured a green clous-de‑Paris enamel finish dial with gold case, resembling the aesthetic of this new Octo Finissimo Green Marble Tourbillon. Except, in this case, it’s actual marble, but more importantly, it shows Bvlgari’s growing appreciation for coloured stone aesthetics in its Octo‑family lines.
Case Design
Bvlgari is presenting the Octo Finissimo Green Marble Tourbillon in a 40mm yellow gold case, which measures just 4.85mm thick. As we know, a signature design element of the Octo Finissimo is the architectural case design. The sharp lines and layered geometry of the case design draw inspiration from Roman architecture while embracing a sleek, modern profile. The gold tones of the case beautifully complement the green marble dial, elevating the timepiece’s luxury presence even further and creating a striking contrast between the two elements.
Dial Design
The green marble dial isn’t just aesthetically stunning; it also pays homage to Bvlgari’s Roman roots and Italian craftsmanship, as it is made from genuine Verde Apli marble, sourced from the Alpine regions of northern Italy. Each Octo Finissimo Green Marble Tourbillon is rich with natural veining, which ensures that the individual models are unique with their own pattern. What I love about this dial design is its juxtaposition of simplicity and complexity. The dial is easy to read with its simplistic design featuring the signature Octo Finissimo hands and sharp rectangular hour indices, done in gold to beautifully contrast against the green backdrop. Then, at the 6 o’clock position, we have the tourbillon, showcasing the complexity of the movement sitting underneath this beautiful, elegant dial.
Creating a marble dial is certainly no easy task either. It is an extremely fragile material to cut into thin layers. Considering the overall thickness of this Octo Finissimo timepiece, the watchmakers had their work cut out in meeting the demands to create a 0.8mm thick marble dial!
Movement
Inside this ultra-thin masterpiece is Bvlgari’s manual-winding BVL 268 calibre, a movement that holds a special place in Bvlgari’s record-breaking legacy. The BVL 268 calibre was part of Bvlgari’s first world record, and is still one of the thinnest tourbillon movements ever made, measuring in at just 1.95mm thick. Even though the movement is extremely thin, it still delivers high performance, with a power reserve of 52 hours and an operating frequency of 3Hz (21,600 VpH). The timepiece does come with an open caseback, which gives a view of the BVL 268 calibre and its various finishing techniques, such as perlage and Geneva stripes.
Initial Thoughts
The Octo Finissimo is more than just another aesthetic refinement of Bvlgari’s record-breaking timepiece. This is a celebration of how far Bvlgari has come in redefining the rules of watchmaking. While the brand could have just rested on its impressive track record of breaking world records, they have instead turned to creating visually stunning dials through cutting-edge engineering and Italy’s rich heritage of craftsmanship and materials.
The Octo Finissimo Green Marble Tourbillon’s colour scheme works really well as the gold geometric case contrasts with the green marble dial perfectly, creating a timepiece that catches attention easily. The simplistic and elegant dial layout is also contrasted with the complexity of the ultra-thin tourbillon, showing us that beauty, complexity, and technical brilliance can all live within the thinnest of profiles. This is a timepiece that is bold, refined, and unmistakably Bvlgari.
Specification: Octo Finissimo Green Marble Tourbillon (Ref. 104171)
- Dimensions: 40mm x 4.85mm thick
- Case Material: Octagonal case in 18kt yellow gold.
- Dial: Dial made from Verde Apli marble. Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Hands and indices are yellow gold-plated.
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: Manual-wound Calibre BVL 268
- Movement Power reserve: Approx. 52 hours operating at 3Hz (21,600 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
- Bracelet/Strap: Green alligator leather with polished 18kt yellow gold pin buckle.