Ulysse Nardin is at it again, with the release of the latest Blast model. This time, the boffins in Le Locle have designed a spectacle for the eyes with some mechanical genius underneath!

Ulysse Nardin has never been a brand to colour within the lines. In fact, I’m not sure there are lines when it comes to Ulysse Nardin. Whether it’s silicon escapements, flying tourbillons or oceanic inspirations, the Le Locle-based manufacture has carved a space for itself in modern watchmaking that’s equal parts technical and rebellious. I’ve always marvelled at their innovations; they usually deliver – like the Diver [AIR] they released at Watches & Wonders this year.

And their latest release is no exception. When I first saw this, my first thought was – what is that? Well, it is the Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] – a bold, architectural creation that doesn’t just push boundaries. It floats above them, literally!

The latest from Ulysse Nardin – the Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] looks crazy because it is!

A Show Of Engineering

Normally, I would look at the movement on its own, but in this case, the Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] is basically the movement on show, integrated into the watch itself, without knowing where the case starts and the movement begins. They are one in themselves. “The UN-176 calibre seems to defy not only the laws of physics but also the very principles of watchmaking construction”, is how Ulysse Nardin describes it. I would agree here.

At first glance, this new addition to the Blast collection looks less like a wristwatch and more like a mechanical art installation. Encased in 45mm of white-gold that is to the eye, only 8.75mm thick, thanks to the design of the airy glassbox sapphire crystal (I’ll explain shortly), what grabs you instantly is the exploded layout of its components: the tourbillon, barrels, power reserve indicator and gear train are all “free floating” above the dial, suspended as if by magic above the Maillechort dial. Below, we’ve outlined the elements on the dial side:

The finishing looks spectacular as well. The base plate has been done in Maillechort (pronounced May-Shor), which essentially is German Silver – a blend of copper, zinc, and nickel that is a living metal and will develop a slight patina over time. Each of the movement’s mechanisms flaot atop of this and display and features well finished elements, such as the bevelling on the balance bridge, solarisation across the wheels and bridges, and blue fired screws all proved a contrast to the textured dial, and even though it is more or less monochromatic, the blue stands out breaking it up.

The watch took over 2 years of research and development by Ulysse Nardin’s technical department, and consists of 246 individual components. At the heart of this is the unique Flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement, which alone comprises 45 parts. How is this different? I’ll let Ulysse Nardin explain:

“The tourbillon is located at 6 o’clock and boasts a revolutionary constant escapement. Challenging the principle of the traditional anchor escapement, the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the centre, supported in space on two blade springs less than a quarter of the thickness of a hair in diameter. Mounted  perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them.”

The tourbillon with UN’s Anchor Constant Escapement won the Tourbillon Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2015.

Framing The Movement

The dial may steal the show on the Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT], but the case is just as much of a showstopper as well. I mentioned that the “perceived thickness” was just 8.75mm, and that is because the case has been designed to give the dial maximum presence and light. In essence, the case is 12.4mm thick if you include the sapphire dome and caseback. Let me explain…

Rather than a solid white gold case, Ulysse Nardin has crafted a case that is more of a frame for the dial and movement. This has been achieved through negative angle facets designed using a complex laser method. The glassbox dome is then inset into the frame, allowing the movement to be visible from all angles. The crystal is, in itself, a testament to the craftsmanship of Ulysee Nardin as it has been cut and hollowed from a single piece of solid sapphire. To cut, hollow and polish a single piece of sapphire like this takes time and skill, as sapphire can crack easily in the production process if not done correctly.

The side view shows the case frame and full glassbox sapphire that puts the dial and movement on display.

Normally, when we talk about the caseback, it involves the movement through a sapphire caseback, or if closed, what is underneath. With the Ulysse Nardin Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT], the caseback is more or less the movement’s main plate made from Maillechort and decorated similarly to the dial side, all of which is visible via the sapphire crystal. The only movement parts visible are the jewels and small apertures showing some of the gears. Around the caseback edges, you have your standard markings as well as the geographical coordinates for the Manufacture in Le Locle.

The minimalistic caseback of the Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT]

Initial Thoughts

The Ulysse Nardin Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] is a statement in every sense – visually, mechanically, and philosophically. It shows what happens when a brand lets its engineers and designers off the leash. And the result is a timepiece that feels less like a product and more like a provocation. Yes, it tells the time, but that isn’t what this watch is designed for. It’s designed for people who want something of a statement on the wrist, and when others see it, they ask, “What is that?” Conversation starters are always great.

In a world of increasingly safe luxury watch releases, Ulysse Nardin’s latest is anything but. It’s big, it’s bold, and just like its dial elements, it floats above the crowd. If you’re looking for something rare, radical, and rich in horological innovation, the Ulysse Nardin Blast [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] might just be your next grail if you’re one of the 50 people lucky enough to get it. And if not? Well, at least you’ll have a hard time forgetting it.

References: 1760-401LE-4A-MAIL/3A

Specifications:

  • Dimensions: 45mm diameter x 12.4mm thickness (8.75mm “perceived” thickness)
  • Case Material: 18ct White Gold satin-finished & polished case
  • Dial: Maillechort dial with grey hands with white Superluminova®
  • Movement: UN-176 Manufacture Calibre. Manual Tourbillon Flying Movement with Hours, Minutes. Flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Escapement (Constant) / Blades technology. Power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock and Escapement-wheel, anchor & balance spring in Silicon 
  • Power Reserve: 7 days
  • Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
  • Strap: Waterproof blue velvet effect rubber strap with white gold deployant buckle. Compatible with BLAST Tourbillon straps

Australian RRP: A$207,600

Availability: Limited to 50 pieces. Enquire via The Hour Glass

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