Sameera Gamage 
Zenith honours its past while embracing the future with the latest CHRONOMASTER Original in sunburst blue. A perfect blend of heritage design and contemporary performance, this timepiece proves why the El Primero remains an icon.
There are only a few timepieces in the world of horology that can claim the influential and iconic status of Zenith’s A386. For those that may not know, the Zenith A386 was unveiled in 1969, and it featured the revolutionary El Primero Calibre. This caliber movement was the world’s first fully integrated automatic chronograph movement, which was capable of beating at an astonishing rate of 5Hz (36,000 VpH). This high-beat rate allowed the El Primero Calibre movement to measure elapsed time accurately to 1/10th of a second, a level of precision unmatched at the time of its release.
The El Primero Calibre was well ahead of it’s time, and brands like Rolex from 1988-2000 used a modified version of this Zenith movement in their Daytona models. Brands like Ebel, TAG Heuer, and Panerai have also used modified versions of the El Primero caliber over the years as well due to its reliability and high performance.
In July 2021, Zenith introduced the CHRONOMASTER Original, a modernised remake of the iconic 1969 A386, the first model to carry the El Primero Calibre. The CHRONOMASTER Original featured the same case proportions as the original while upgrading the modern El Primero 3600 Calibre to measure 1/10th of a second accuracy, a nod to the original. There have been numerous upgrades since CHRONOMASTER Original’s debut, with the green dial Boutique edition being one of my favourite timepieces from Zenith, and the more recent Lapis Lazuli edition with its stunning blue dial being a standout model in the collection.
Now, for the very first time in the CHRONOMASTER Original collection, Zenith has combined a striking blue dial with the emblematic tricolour subdials. While the more recent CHRONOMASTER Original editions have featured single-coloured sub-dials, the tricolour subdials remain a defining hallmark of the collection, instantly linking these modern iterations back to the original 1969 A386 that started it all.
You may be wondering why Zenith has released so many blue dial variants this year. Especially since a blue dial CHRONOMASTER Original (Lapis Lazuli) was only released a few short weeks ago. This is because the Swiss watchmaker is celebrating their 160th anniversary this year! Founded in 1865 in Le Locle, Switzerland, the colour blue has always remained special for the brand due to its connection to the brand’s name and the founder’s vision. Zenith, which means the highest point in the sky, was inspired by the starry night sky, making the colour blue a great choice to represent the brand and its identity.
Case Design
As with all modern editions of the Zenith CHRONOMASTER Original, the compact 38mm stainless steel case is a faithful reproduction of the iconic 1969 reference A386. The case has been modeled directly from the A386’s original blueprints, making the case of the CHRONOMASTER Original almost an exact modern replica. Like the original A386, the CHRONOMASTER Original features a round bezel-less design, with vintage-style pump pushers, a sloped profile, and faceted lugs. The finishing of the case is also sublime, with a diagonal satin-brushed finish on the surface, while the side profile is a stunning mirror-like polish. This mirror-like polish extends to the chronograph pushers and crown, which is adorned with Zenith’s iconic 5-pointed star logo.
Dial Design
Donned in Zenith’s signature blue colour, the dial with its tricolour subdials gives the timepiece a fresh new contemporary take on a timeless design. The classic design of the CHRONOMASTER Original blends elegance with a modern edge, offering a timepiece that feels just as relevant today as it did in 1969.
The beautiful blue dial has a sunburst effect, which means, depending on the lighting angles, it can transition from a deep navy blue to a more vibrant royal blue colour. Then comes the white sub-scale, positioned underneath the 1/10th of a second scale on the outer peripheral of the dial. The white SuperLumi-Nova on the hour indices and hands perfectly contrasts with the blue background, providing an easy-to-read dial. As the movement operates at 5Hz, the sub-dials all feature 60 increments, with the blue sub-dial at 3 o’clock being a 60-second chronograph counter, the dark grey sub-dial at 6 o’clock being a 60-minute chronograph counter, and lastly, the light grey sub-dial at 9 o’clock being a small seconds indicator.
Movement
The beating heart of the CHRONOMASTER Original is, as mentioned previously, the El Primero 3600 Calibre movement. Using the full potential of its 5Hz frequency, the movement is able to do precise time measurements, down to 1/10th of a second, with exceptional clarity. It does this by allowing the central chronograph seconds hand to complete a full rotation every 10 seconds, displaying the 1/10th readings clearly along the outer scale for instant legibility. The El Primero 3600 Calibre offers a robust 60-hour power reserve as well, making it practical for daily wear.
The transparent case back showcases the movement and Zenith’s attention to detail. The movement is beautifully decorated through the use of various colours to present a very aesthetic case back! From the blued screws, pink jewels, gold balance wheel and gears to the skeletonised rotor with Zeniths’ iconic 5-pointed star, the aesthetic details of the case back reflect the refined mechanical mastery of the El Primero 3600 Calibre.
Initial Thoughts
While there are many brands that have heritage, only a few can showcase it as authentically as Zenith with their CHRONOMASTER Original model. The timepiece isn’t just a nod to the original A386 reference model, but a living evolution of this iconic chronograph that had a major impact on watchmaking. The CHRONOMASTER Original seamlessly integrates A386’s timeless design with the precision and performance of the modern El Primero 3600 calibre movement.
While there have been some stunning modern iterations of the CHRONOMASTER Original, especially in blue, this latest model stays true to the original while showcasing the beauty of a sunburst blue dial. The addition of the tricolour subdials against the vibrant blue dial makes the dial much more lively, especially at different lighting angles. In a year where Zenith is celebrating their 160th anniversary, the CHRONOMASTER Original in blue serves as a fitting tribute to a brand that continues to reach for the stars while staying deeply rooted to its history.
Specification: Zenith CHRONOMASTER Original (Ref 03.3200.3600/52.C910)
- Dimensions: 38mm X 12.9mm thick
- Case Material: Stainless steel with satin-brushed and polished finishing
- Dial: Blue-toned sunray-patterned dial with tricolour subdials for the chronograph counters. Red chronograph 1/10th of a second hand.
- Water Resistance: 50m (5 Bar)
- Movement: Automatic El Primero 3600 Calibre
- Movement Power reserve: 60 hours operating at 5Hz (36,000 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective Treatment
- Bracelet/Strap: Comes with 2 straps: Blue calfskin leather strap with steel folding clasp. Metal bracelet with a folding clasp included
