Mario Canonizado 
Happy July 4th to our American readers! While the United States once again gathers to celebrate the anniversary of their independence, allow me to compile some of the most impressive watch brands coming out of the country.
When you think of the greatest watchmaking nations, who comes to mind? Switzerland is the obvious answer — but perhaps your thoughts also drift to Germany or Japan. And you’d be right. These three countries undeniably represent the pinnacle of modern horology. But there’s a fourth answer, which is often overlooked: the United States of America.
While America may not be top of mind in today’s watch landscape, the country once played a pivotal role in shaping the industry as we know it. During the 19th century’s Industrial Revolution, the U.S. led a manufacturing renaissance that brought watchmaking to unprecedented levels of scale and precision. Pioneers like James Hamilton, Webb C. Ball, Thomas Olsen of Timex, and Florentine Ariosto Jones — founder of IWC — laid the groundwork for some of the most iconic names in watchmaking history.
But as these visionaries took their brands abroad, America’s golden age of watchmaking slowly began to fade. That said, the story is far from over. In recent years, a new generation of American watchmakers has emerged, determined to restore the nation’s place on the horological map. Whether it’s fast-growing microbrands like Jack Mason, Lorier, and Brew, or promising independents like Avoir Dupois, the spirit of American watchmaking is very much alive — and gaining momentum. In that spirit, let’s dive into five American brands that are helping to reignite the country’s watchmaking legacy!
RGM
If you know even a little about the modern American watch landscape, then this first brand should come as no surprise. Founded by master watchmaker Roland G. Murphy in 1992, RGM has perhaps the most compelling story of any American watchmaker on this list. With a deep passion and reverence for American horological heritage, Murphy set out with one mission: to create some of the finest mechanical timepieces made entirely in the United States.
After graduating from the Bowman Technical School in Pennsylvania, he continued his pursuit of excellence at the prestigious WOSTEP program in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. That international journey eventually brought him back home, where he founded RGM in Lancaster, Pennsylvania — the same city where Hamilton was born.
Now 33 years in, RGM proudly carries the ‘Made in USA’ label. And if you’re familiar with the legal and logistical hurdles involved in earning that designation (let alone the wider political and economic unrest currently occurring), you’ll know how rare and difficult it is to achieve. Yet RGM remains one of the very few watchmakers that manufactures nearly every component of select watches on American soil.
Not only does that include the movement, but the components, cases, and dials — yes, even those featuring guilloché, enamel, and wood marquetry — are all crafted in-house. That level of commitment eclipses even some of the top Swiss watch brands, but RGM makes it look effortless. If anyone has earned the right to wear the ‘Made in USA’ badge with pride, it’s RGM — and they’ve also earned the admiration of budding watch enthusiasts around the world.
Today, RGM’s catalogue spans more than 20 unique collections, with dozens of sub-categories to explore. From the rugged professionalism of Models 300, 600, 500, and 151, to the refined elegance of Models 801, 25, and 207 — not to mention the stunning artistry of the Chess in Enamel series, the extraordinary Pennsylvania Tourbillon, or the Model 25 USS Constitution with its wood marquetry dial — RGM stands as one of the most complete American watchmakers operating today.
If you’ve got the budget and you’re searching for the finest American watchmaker to invest in, you’d be hard-pressed to find anyone better. And if nothing in their existing catalogue meets your standards? That’s fine, too — RGM is just one inquiry away from building a custom timepiece just for you.
For more information on this brand, head on over to RGMWatches.com!
1776 Atelier
Moving from the old guard to the new, we come to 1776 Atelier. Honestly, that’s about as American a brand name as you can get—1776 being the year of the United States’ Declaration of Independence. While the brand is still relatively fresh on the scene, that hasn’t stopped it from making a surprising impact on both the American and global watch industries.
1776 Atelier was founded by Jason Lu, a lifelong lover of the art and science of horology. That passion led him down the path of restoring vintage timepieces to their former glory. Eventually, it also led him to Glashütte where he befriended and learned from some of the best watchmakers and brands in the world. While that may sound a bit vague, I can personally vouch for it. Having been to Glashütte myself, I can confirm: all of Germany’s premier watch brands — Glashütte Original, A. Lange & Söhne, Moritz Grossmann, NOMOS, Union Glashütte, and Wempe — operate within a stone’s throw of each other.
Thus, 1776 Atelier has created a variety of impressive timepieces at a relatively accessible price point — perfect for seasoned collectors, new enthusiasts, or anyone in between who’s a little light in the wallet. Their flagship collection, the Mount Vernon, starts at USD $2,900, with options for custom movement finishing and strap configurations. Two additional collections round out the lineup: the Monticello, a delicately skeletonized piece, and the Sagamore Hill, which revives vintage American watch movements inside the 1776 Atelier case.
Like RGM, though, bespoke options are always on the table — like the New Glory, made in collaboration with artist Scott LoBaido. That particular watch proudly features the Stars and Stripes on the dial, which, upon first sight, might just make you want to set off fireworks or drop a Stone Cold Stunner on everyone in the room.
For more information on this brand, head on over to 1776Atelier.com!
Ralph Lauren
Like my article on the very best Filipino brands, this entry could absolutely be considered cheating. “Why are you name-dropping an American fashion label instead of one of the beloved micros or independents?” you might be asking. “Have you gone mad?” Well, before you tar and feather me for it, just hear me out.
Related Reading: Beyond The Runway – Why ‘Fashion Watches’ Matter (And Always Have!)
Yes, Ralph Lauren is a clothing brand. But it’s important to understand why it stepped into the world of horology. Founded in New York City in 1967 by the eponymous designer, the now-multinational company has always specialised in all things Americana. The influence of the American West runs deep in everything they do — from their home furnishings to their fragrances, and yes, even those pink polo shirts that somehow always end up on the most annoying person you know. But here’s a lesser-known fact: Ralph Lauren — the man, not the brand — is a massive watch nerd. He’s one of us!
Having collected vintage watches for over 40 years, Ralph Lauren’s personal collection spans an impressive array of brands. Some of the most noteworthy pieces include watches from Cartier, Panerai, Urwerk, and even a World War II–era IWC. It’s a collection as remarkable as it is extensive — one that absolutely deserves its own deep dive sometime in the future.
So, it makes perfect sense that when Lauren officially entered the watch world in 2009, he aimed for nothing short of excellence. Teaming up with the Richemont Group, and Piaget in particular, he unveiled his debut collection at the now-rebranded Watches and Wonders, then known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).
Today, Ralph Lauren’s watch catalogue is impressively broad. From quartz-driven timepieces at the accessible end, to more refined offerings like the Polo ’67, Stirrup, and the mastercrafted 867 and American Western lines, there truly is a Ralph Lauren watch for everyone — no matter how deep your enthusiasm for horology runs.
For more information on this brand, head on over to RalphLauren.com!
Towson Watch Company
When it comes to championing American-made watchmaking, it always helps to have a bit of experience on deck. After all, the industrialised production era of the American wristwatch is long behind us—if you want to get it done today, you’ve got to do it properly before you even think about scaling up.
Fortunately, both experience and manufacturing know-how were on the side of Hartwig Balke. Originally from Pforzheim — a horological Mecca in its own right — Balke would eventually settle in Towson, Maryland. A prolific engineer and inventor, he co-founded the Towson Watch Company with George Thomas in 1998, quietly bringing traditional German watchmaking expertise to American soil.
For the past 27 years, the brand has flourished by doing exactly that — blending Balke’s remarkable expertise with a highly recognisable design language. While the company has clarified that it’s not entirely independent — they still maintain partnerships in Pforzheim for raw component production — everything else that makes up a Towson Watch Company timepiece is done locally. From the finishing of the case and bracelet to the assembly and regulation of the movement, Towson’s watches are as seriously crafted as they come.
This level of craftsmanship is evident in their collections, which range from the distinctive aesthetics of the Recruit/Cadet and Mission lines to the tonneau-shaped Talbot and the unconventionally triangular Pride II. They’ve also taken care to foster the next generation of American watchmakers while maintaining their collaborative ties with Germany, particularly through joint projects with prolific Pforzheim-based watchmaker Jochen Benzinger.
For more information on this brand, head on over to TowsonWatchCompany.com!
J.N. Shapiro
Much like RGM, J.N. Shapiro is a brand committed to pushing the boundaries of American watchmaking. Not content with simply assembling watches locally, the brand has actively campaigned to manufacture them entirely within the United States. However, while Ronald G. Murphy’s expertise is rooted almost solely in watchmaking, the origins of J.N. Shapiro are quite different.
As the name suggests, the brand was founded by Joshua N. Shapiro. Unlike many in the industry, he didn’t begin as a watchmaker but as a historian, educator, and tinkerer. With both a Bachelor’s and a Master’s degree in U.S. History, there may be no one better suited to fall in love with the golden age of American horology than Shapiro. After honing his skills as an engine-turner creating guilloché dials for various brands, he founded J.N. Shapiro in 2018 in Torrance, Los Angeles, California. With a small but exceptionally skilled team of watchmakers, the brand has pursued the rare and prestigious label of ‘American Made’ — a distinction that, for decades, has only been truly held by the likes of RGM.
Following in the footsteps of the late legend George Daniels, J.N. Shapiro’s first release was the Infinity Series. Debuting in 2018, the collection wasn’t yet entirely American-made, but it did showcase the brand’s signature ‘Infinity Weave’ guilloché pattern and timeless aesthetics. These were paired with a custom engine-turned caseback and the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret F200 (7380) movement. The brand hit another milestone on its third anniversary, becoming the first company outside Switzerland to produce watch cases from tantalum—a truly rare feat.
However, it wasn’t until late 2023 that the brand unveiled what could be considered its magnum opus: the Resurgence. A name befitting the revival of American haute horlogerie, this timepiece featured a refined 38mm case, a multilayered and customisable guilloché dial, and — most impressively — a fully in-house manufactured movement complete with Damascene finishing (often referred to as America’s answer to Côtes de Genève, originating in American pocket watches).
The Resurgence quickly became J.N. Shapiro’s flagship model and a global sensation. After years of championing a return to the American watchmaking golden age, this was Joshua Shapiro’s vision made real. While development and production remain limited, the level of craftsmanship on offer makes it well worth the wait.
