Breguet has always been a brand that resonates with me, not for its flash or hype, but for its quiet mastery and timeless elegance. The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 perfectly shows why Breguet continues to capture my admiration, watch after watch.

To commemorate Breguet’s momentous 250th anniversary this year, the brand has released a very special timepiece: the Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7035. This limited edition timepiece pays homage to Breguet’s rich horological heritage and epitomises Breguet’s 250 years of technical and aesthetic innovation. The watch stays true to the brand’s iconic Tradition collection, especially in its geometric codes, with the brand’s meticulous in-house hand-finishing at the forefront of the timepiece’s aesthetic design.

Breguet’s Tradition collection was first launched in 2005, as a way of honouring the expertise and unique approach to watchmaking of Abraham-Louis Breguet. The collection also paid particular attention to the groundbreaking Souscription watches developed by A.L. Breguet in the late 18th century. The Souscription watches were known for their symmetrical, openworked architecture and their focus on mechanical purity, elements that the modern Tradition collection upholds.

The Tradition collection offers a birds-eye view of the movement, with the exposed gear trains, pare-chute schock absorbers and off-centred dials offering a raw and almost industrial-like aesthetic appearance. The design codes in these timepieces draw inspiration directly from Breguet’s original creations, blending horological innovation and tradition seamlessly. As Breguet states, “When admiring their watch, the owner of a Tradition will have the same view as a watchmaker does of the movement while working on the creation.”

Now, as part of the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet is introducing a brand new timepiece that incorporates for the very first time two “in-house” colour codes: 18K Breguet gold and Breguet blue. 18K Breguet gold is an exclusive alloy that is created when gold, silver, copper and palladium are skillfully fused into a single alloy that radiates a stunning warm golden hue. This alloy was first introduced earlier this year when Breguet unveiled the Classique Souscription 2025. Breguet Blue, on the other hand, is a rich, deep shade of blue that has become a signature colour for the brand, created through traditional methods like heat-bluing or translucent enamel over guilloché. Breguet blue stands out proudly as the colour of the off-centre dial, shining beautifully amongst the gold.

Related Reading: Breguet Celebrates 250th Anniversary With New Classique Souscription 2025

Case Design

The case design of the Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7035 remains unchanged from the other classic models such as the Tradition 7047 , 7097 and 7057. The case measures 38mm x 12.6mm thick, and as mentioned earlier, has been crafted from 18K Breguet gold. The polished finish of the case means that this timepeices shines beautifully, even more so at different lighting angles, ensuring that the watch remains instantly recognisable.

What makes the case even more appealing is the signature design elements of the Tradition collection. The most prominent being the fluted baseband, often referred to as a “coin-edge” design. This intricate design is displayed through finely grooved lines that encircle the case’s side profile. The welded lugs with screw bars is another signature design which is a hallmark of Breguet’s traditional watchmaking. These design elements highlight Breguet’s commitment to classic aesthetic design along with their highly detailed craftsmanship.

Dial Design

While the dial design remains relatively similar to the existing Tradition timepeices, its brilliant use of colours makes this one of the best-looking timepeices in the collection. Firstly, Breguet have continued the use of 18K Breguet gold from the case onto the mainplate and bridges using a specially developed plating treatment. These elements are further defined by the use of two different finishing techniques: grained for the mainplate and satin brushed for the bridges. Although they are of the same colour, these techniques allow them to be differentiated and stand out attractively from each other.

A perfect aesthetic balanced is then achieved through the use of silver-coloured gears, blued screws and ruby-red jewels, all working together to provide a stunning visual contrast, while also allowing the 18K Breguet gold to radiate beauty even further. What I particularly like is the blued screws and its “uneven” spread throughout the lower part of the dial. They also elegantly match the blue retrograde seconds counter at the 11 o’clock position on the dial, as well as with the main off-centre Breuget blue dial.

This off-centred Breguet blue dial is a work of art in its own right. The finely engine-turned guilloché dial uses a “Quai de l’Horloge” motif. This unique pattern is inspired by the Seine River around Île de la Cité, where Breguet’s original workshop was located. Breguet are at the forefront of the art of guilloché, with the brand currently owning the largest collection of working guilloché lathes in the world. For the Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7035, Breguet devised an entirely new pattern, one that makes perfect sense for a watch celebrating its 250th anniversary.


“The precise contours of the “Quai de l’Horloge” motif are modelled on the Turgot map, a highly detailed, perspective view of the city of Paris produced in the eighteenth century. For its time, it was remarkably accurate: it included all the streets, buildings and even every tree in the centre of Paris!”
Breguet on the creation of the “Quai de l’Horloge” motif as the guilloché patten.


Movement

The engine behind the new Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 is the Calibre 505SR, an automatic winding movement comprising 245 components and 38 jewels. This is a movement that has been featured in several timepeices within the Breguet’s Tradition collection. Most notably, the Tradition 7037 and the Tradition Dame 7038. Operating at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 VpH) and having a power reserve of 50 hours, the design of the Calibre 505SR is distinctive as it draws inspiration from the historical Souscription watches, showcasing both mechanical ingenuity and aesthetic harmony.

If you thought the front was beautiful, the caseback is a mechanical masterpiece. Viewed through the sapphire caseback, the 505SR movement has been intricately crafted to show the masterclass in movement finishing that Breguet is known for. Mimicking the aesthetics of the front, the caseback features a golden landscape surrounded by blue screws, pink jewels, and silver gears. The brushed platinum oscillating weight has been specially crafted in the shape of a crescent moon, reminiscent of those used in A.-L. Breguet’s time.

Initial Thoughts

To mark the historic quarter of a millennium of horological excellence, Breguet has created a watch that is as meaningful as it is beautiful. This latest Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7035 embodies everything the brand stands for: heritage, innovation, craftsmanship, and aesthetic beauty. There are so many different elements to this watch that I love. From the use of Breguet gold on the case and dial, to the different colours of the dial itself working in harmony to stand out subtly without detracting the attention away from the stunning “Quai de l’Horloge” motif guilloché dial in Breguet blue, each of these details has been executed with precision and purpose.

While Breguet may not always occupy the mainstream spotlight, it will always hold a special place in my heart. The brand consistently executes with grace and mastery, creating timepieces that seamlessly blend history, innovation, and artistry in a way that genuinely takes your breath away. The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 is yet another reminder of why Breguet continues to stand in a league of its own.

Specification: Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 (7035BH/H2/9V6)

  • Dimensions: 38mm X 12.6mm thick
  • Case Material: 18k Breuget gold
  • Dial: 18K Breuget gold dial with off-centre “Quai de l’Horloge” motif guilloché dial in Breguet blue.
  • Water Resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
  • Movement: Automatic Calibre 505SR
  • Movement Power reserve: Approx. 50 hours operating at 3Hz (21,600 VpH)
  • Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
  • Bracelet/Strap: Navy blue alligator leather, large scales, lined with navy blue alligator leather, small scales, buckle in 18K Breguet gold.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 74,600

Availability: Limited to 250 timepieces. Available now through Breguet boutiques and authorised retailers or Breguet.com.au

Subscribe to WatchAdvice Newsletter

Our biggest stories, delivered to your inbox every day.

Copyright 2024 Watch Advice Pty Ltd. ACN: 633 660 992. All Right Reserved.