For their debut showing at Watches and Wonders, NOMOS had to prove that they belonged in the big leagues. They needed at least one good reason to be in Geneva for this year’s festivities, and they gave us that and thirty more.
NOMOS has long been a dark horse in the watchmaking industry, and it’s frankly mind-boggling as to why. They hail from the watchmaking capital of Germany, they manufacture in-house movements, and their overall lineup is both solid and incredibly versatile. From A to Z – Ahoi to Zürich – NOMOS is perhaps one of the most complete watch brands out there. So why are they still overlooked?
It may be, perhaps, due to their aesthetics. While the Bauhaus style is incredibly popular in watch design, it is also quite polarising. You have to be in a certain headspace to properly appreciate the simplicity of minimalism – a challenge in an industry that always demands more. Perhaps that’s what the crowd wants from NOMOS. More aesthetics, more eye-catching designs, more exclusivity, and more colour.
At Watches and Wonders 2024, the German brand decided to do all four, releasing a Limited Edition lineup of the Tangente 38 Date, in a splash of vibrant colours. Usually, a colour change isn’t exactly big news, but the way they did it is nothing short of remarkable, almost borderline stealing the show.
As previously mentioned, NOMOS elected not just to release one, but thirty-one new Limited-Edition colourways of the Tangente 38 Date. That way, nobody would have an excuse to not pick one up! Perhaps you want to follow the green watch trend? Sounds like you’re in the market for a Schlossgrün. Are you more of a blue-dial person? Nachtgesang and Frostblau are right up your alley. Want to let everyone know that you’re in the room? Pick up a Chili.
The craftsmanship at play at NOMOS is also worthy of commendation, as all of the Tangente references are operated by the in-house, manual wind DUW 4101 movement. Beating at 3Hz (21,600bph) on a 42-hour power reserve, this represents an unspeakably good value-for-money proposition. The DUW4101 is not only manufactured, assembled, and finished in-house, but it’s also chronometer adjusted.
Compounding this, the DUW4101 also contains the patented NOMOS swing escapement, marking itself as one of the very few brands to produce such a component entirely within its four walls. It’s an achievement that was frequently described as the watch world’s equivalent of the Moon Landing, shattering the manufacturing monopoly of Swatch Group when it was introduced in 2014.
Although such horological feats are both incredible and almost entirely heard of, they won’t be around forever. The Tangente 38 Date Colours collection is only limited to 175 references… each. Not so limited, it seems – you have 5,425 chances to pick one up for yourself – but the more popular colour combinations are certain to rush out the door if they haven’t already.
Final Thoughts
While not my favourite Bauhaus-inspired watch brand (I’m more of a Junghans guy), there is an undeniable charm about these watches that prevent me from turning my nose up at them. The minimalist design has become a cult classic and certainly has its fans, but the brilliance behind the Tangented 38 Date Colours collection is something that everyone in the watch industry should tip their hat towards.
If you’re unfamiliar with the level of craftsmanship and design excellence that NOMOS Glashütte is capable of, I highly advise you to start reading up on them now. If you’re looking to start your journey with the minimalist, ‘less is more’ aesthetic, there’s no better place to start than the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date Colours collection – especially since these Limited Editions are priced lower than the standard Tangente lineup…
Reference: NOMOS Tangente 38 Date Colours Collection
Specifications:
- Size: 37.5mm diameter x 47.7mm lug-to-lug x 6.8mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: 31 options
- Crystal: Scratchproof sapphire
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Movement: In-house manual wind DUW4101 movement with patented NOMOS swing escapement
- Power Reserve: 52 hours
- Beat Rate: 3Hz/21,600bph
- Bracelet/Strap: Gray textile strap with stainless steel buckle
