Five Brands You Missed at Watches & Wonders 2024 (Part 1)

by Mario C

With Watches and Wonders truly done, you might still feel hungry for more releases. Don’t worry – we’re feeling it too! To satisfy that craving, here are some releases that you may have missed amongst the festivities.

Watches & Wonders 2024 is now over. What a year it was, though! Brands both big and small came forward with timepieces showcasing their horological prowess. Through skilled artistry, avant-garde innovation, and ruthless craftsmanship, it’s evident that everyone involved had put their best foot forward, wowing audiences with their newest timepieces.

We here at WatchAdvice know that as well as most. Working tirelessly between Switzerland and Australia to capture the best content possible for you. However, with 55 brands involved in this year’s celebration, some releases inevitably slipped through the cracks. But we believe these brands and models still deserve recognition for their incredible work, so here are five of our favourites that you may have missed!

1 – Czapek: Promenade Gotte D’Eau

Starting off the list is Czapek, a brand that I’ve personally loved for a long time. Admittedly, it’s mostly because of their mysterious heritage – Czapek disappeared for nearly 143 years between 1869 and 2012 – but, in their resurrected state, their commitment to horological excellence has been second to none.

This year, they have expanded their lineup by one with the introduction of the Promenade Collection. Three models exist in 38mm, with two sporting a guilloché dial of muted blue or silver. The third, however, is the limited edition Gotte D’Eau, with a dial made from deep blue enamel.

The newly introduced Czapek Gotte D’eau with a deep blue enamel dial

While Czapek is no stranger to enamel-dialled watches – case in point, the Antactique P.04 collaboration with Collective Horology – the Gotte D’Eau (French for ‘drops of water’) turns it up by 11. Through the use of incredibly complex Grand Feu enamel, this Czapek Promenade elegantly simulates the ripple effect of a droplet in a pool of water, radiating out from the sub-seconds dial.

From this vantage point, you can really see the water drops radiating from the small seconds hand

From a mechanical standpoint, it’s no slouch either, powered by the in-house SXH5 micro-rotor movement – 60 hours power reserve, 4Hz (28,800bph) beat rate, and one of the most gorgeous movements I have ever seen.

The beauty that is the SXH5 micro-rotor movement

As of now, this limited edition is sadly sold out, but learn more about this watch – and the Promenade collection – here. 

2 – Trilobe: L’Heure Exquise

If you’re unfamiliar, Trilobe is one of the most interesting names currently in haute horlogerie. Despite being founded in 2018, they have rapidly carved out a recognisable niche for themselves in the watchmaking industry. It’s rare to find an innovation as elegant as it is daring, but Trilobe’s X-Centric micro-rotor, no-hands movement brings an inventive new spin to the upper tier of watchmaking. The Heure Exquise collection is but the latest result of these innovations.

The collection of Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exsquise – Blue, Dune and Secret models

The Heure Exquise takes the X-Centric movement into uncharted territory with the implementation of a double moon phase complication. Encased in titanium or 18k  rose gold, the Heure Exquise only compounds the eccentric yet elegant display (no pun intended).

Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise, Blue or The Mornings Exquisite Hour – Blue

With 100 pieces available in Blue, Dune, and ‘Secret’ – a configuration sporting a personalised night sky atop a blue dial – there’s no lack of options available for aesthetic appeal. What’s even better is that on the website, they let you choose between either 38.5mm or 40.5mm size upon ordering! It’s an option that should be available for more high-end brands at a similar price point, but Trilobes are made-to-order, so it should be easier for them.

Learn more about the Heure Exquise collection here! 

3 – Laurent Ferrier: Classic Moon

Speaking of haute horlogerie, Laurent Ferrier is one of the names reverently whispered by watch enthusiasts worldwide. Founded in 2009 alongside the titular master watchmaker, their timepieces are widely regarded to be the pinnacle of the modern watchmaking era, exuding a degree of excellence most watch brands have to bend over backwards to achieve.

At Watches and Wonders 2024, Laurent Ferrier has once again shown why they are one of Horology’s top dogs with the release of the Classic Moon collection, available in both blue and silver dial renditions in a stainless steel or 18k red gold 40mm case.

The Laurent Ferrier Classic Silver Moon in stainless steel

Combining contemporary design with their mechanical know-how, the Classic Moon collection sports an annual calendar with day, month and date indications, as well as a double moon phase complication as the name suggests. The minimalist yet vintage aesthetic doesn’t lend itself to any particular era, framing the collection as the epitome of timelessness and understated extravagance.

The Laurent Ferrier Classic Silver Moon in 18k Red Gold

The movement powering the Classic Moon collection is the manual wind Cal. LF126.02, permitting the aforementioned complications on top of a whopping 80-hour power reserve. One of my favourite parts of the movement is the power reserve indicator on the back, which in my opinion is where all power reserve indications should be! It takes up unnecessary dial space and makes no sense to have it on the front – unless you do it elegantly, of course.  

The display caseback with the manual wind Cal. LF126.02 and power reserve indicator

Learn more about the Classic Moon and the rest of the Classic collection here!

4 – Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme

Shifting gears is Alpina, who don’t exactly have the same haute horlogerie reputation as a brand like Trilobe or Laurent Ferrier. What they do have, however, is over 140 years’ worth of watchmaking experience. Throughout its history, Alpina has broken the mould in timepiece manufacturing standards. In 1938, they introduced the ‘Alpina 4’ guidelines, insisting every timepiece should be anti-magnetic, anti-shock, water resistant, and in stainless steel. This strict adherence led to Alpina timepieces being world-renowned for their durability, quality, and precision.

Their newest novelties for Watches and Wonders 2024 take those original concepts to the extreme (again, no pun intended). The innovative three-part stainless steel Extreme case has found its way from the Alpiner collection to the Seastrong.

The new Aplina Seastrong Extreme Collection on integrated rubber straps

Once Alpina’s heritage-based dive watch collection, the new Seastrong Extreme lineup is their robust response to the integrated bracelet sport watch trend. Available in a dark blue or black/orange and GMT versions in either a classic black or white dial colourway, the Seastrong Extreme collection is powered by the Cal. AL-525, a reliable 38-hour automatic movement accompanied by the diver’s standard water resistance rating of 300m.

Up close with the Orange/Black

Learn more about Alpina’s Seastrong collection here!

5 – Ferdinand Berthoud: Chronomètre FB 1RES.4

Finishing off this list is the Ferdinand Berthoud watch brand. Carrying on the legacy of one of the greatest horologists of all time is no easy feat, but the resurrection of Ferdinand Berthoud’s brand has only seen successes in the modern era, proving that the 1753 brand still has tricks up its sleeves. Ferdinand Berthoud’s newest release, the Chronomètre FB 1RES.4, stands as a testament to the level of horology inherited by this current generation of master watchmakers.

Ferdinand Berthoud: Chronomètre FB 1RES.4

Though a 44mm wide, 14mm thick octagonal case is not diminutive by any means, Ferdinand Berthoud has compensated for it through the use of ceramic-coated titanium in the FB 1RES.4’s stock rendition. What makes it even better is that this is only one rendition available to the purchaser, as Ferdinand Berthoud permits you to customise your own FB 1RES.4 as you see fit!

A customised version of the FB 1RES.4 in 18k Rose Gold, Sandblasted Champagne Dial and Silver Inner Ring

However, the true mastery at play lies in the back of the watch. The FB 1RES.4’s movement is the Cal. FB-RES.FC, running at 2.5Hz (18,000bph) with a 50-hour power reserve. What sets this movement apart, however, is undoubtedly the masterful technology and hand finishing.

The caseback of the FB 1RES.4’s movement showcasing the Cal. FB-RES.FC. Check out that fusee-and-chain transmission at the top right!

The Cal. FB-RES.FC is also equipped with a one-second remontoir function, allowing for both extremely accurate timekeeping as well as a deadbeat/jumping-second hand. Deadbeat/jumping-second hands are not particularly uncommon – you see them all the time in quartz watches – but to do one in a mechanical setting is extremely difficult, requiring a level of finesse possessed by only a handful of even the world’s best watchmakers.

Find out more about the Chronomètre FB 1RES.4 here!

So there you have it, the first five watches you man have missed at Watches & Wonders 2024. Now, if you want more, you can read Part 2 with our other five picks here!

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