Jaeger-LeCoultre has re-defined their classic Master Ultrathin Perpetual Calendar and now offers four versions to suit any occasion.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has marked the start of Watches & Wonders 2024 with four new Master Ultrathin Perpetual Calendars, (three in pink gold and one in steel) including newly re-designed and refined finishes. In addition to the refinements of the previous models, Jaeger-LeCoultre has added a beautiful subtle gradient blue dial in a pink gold case – perfect for those who want a warmer and more subdued look.
In looking to modernise and refine their Master Ultrathin Perpetual Calendar, Jaeger-LeCoultre has made many subtle changes to the previous version, which all add up to a more pleasing aesthetic and a cleaner dial layout. Watch Advice has been lucky enough to preview these pieces before Watches & Wonders, and compare the new generation to the previous generation.
On the dial, Jaeger-LeCoultre has given the dauphine hands brushed and polished edges on each side, giving them more depth which adds just that little more contrast to the dial, and to make the dial cleaner, thinned the indices, which you can see from the 2023 vs 2024 models below.
The moonphase aperture has also been given an overhaul, with some small but welcome differences. The window itself is now surrounded by either a steel or pink gold edging, helping to highlight the window itself, and drawing attention to it. The moonphase disc is more detailed with additional stars to paint the night sky. Looking at the images below, you can see the lack of detailing and aperture refinement on the 2023 red gold model as opposed to the 2024 model with many more stars and gold beveling on the edges.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has upgraded the movement to the newer and more powerful generation of the Calibre 868. Jaeger-LeCoultre has almost doubled the power reserve from 38 hours to 70 hours, now in line with most modern mechanical watches. First launched in 2013, this movement is an evolution of the original and was designed, produced, and assembled in-house at Jaeger-LeCoultre. It features a new escapement and pallets which Jaeger-LeCoultre has re-designed and modified to create less friction and thus conserve more energy.
Whilst the case size has remained the same at 39mm in diameter and only 9.2mm thick, Jaeger-LeCoultre has redesigned the lugs to be thinner and slightly longer to help with the way it sits on the wrist and give it better overall proportions and balance. Whilst not directly noticeable when looking at the pieces individually, in comparison, it is more evident.
In addition to the Pink Gold and steel versions shown, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a more feminine Pink Gold model, with a diamond set bezel. This piece keeps all the same specs as the pink gold Perpetual Calendar with the eggshell dial but adds the luxury of having 60 diamonds (approx 0.85 Carats) set into the bezel.
Initial Thoughts
Whilst we haven’t spent a long time with the new Mater Ultrathin Perpetual Calendars, as we would for a hands-on review, we can say that these are a very nice, elegant dress watch. They scream luxury and elegance, and for those people who want to class up their watch game, then these are certainly the pieces for you.
White Gold model on Champs’ wrist 
Looking good with dress cuffs and a jacket!
All the subtle changes Jaeger-LeCoultre has made to these pieces does in fact enhance the look and feel. Whilst not initially all that noticeable, take a second more in-depth look and they start to stand out. This is more so when comparing the previous 2023 models with the newer 2024 pieces, and when doing so, you start to appreciate the changes more and more.
The Pink Gold version does make for a more formal statement, whereas the steel on the black alligator strap dresses down a little more, which personally I like as it suits more of my attire. Whichever way you lean, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultrathin will take your watch game to a new level, and add some sophistication to your style!
References:
- Q114258J – Pink gold with midnight blue dial
- Q1142510 – Pink gold with eggshell dial
- Q1142501 – Pink gold with diamonds and eggshell dial
- Q114842J – Steel with silver sunrayed dial
Specifications
- Case Size: 39mm diameter x 9.2mm thick
- Case Material: 18k Pink Gold or Stainless Steel
- Dial: Gradient blue sunray, eggshell, or silver sunray
- Movement: In-house automatic Calibre 868, beating at 4Hz/28,800 VpH and pivoting on 46 jewels
- Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, year) with red security zone, moon phases
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Crystal: Sapphire bezel and case back
- Strap: Black alligator (pink gold case with eggshell dial, steel case) / Blue alligator (pink gold case with midnight blue dial)
Australian Recommended Retail Pricing:
- Pink gold with midnight blue dial – AU $65,000 (TBC)
- Pink gold with eggshell dial – AU $65,000 (TBC)
- Pink gold with diamonds and eggshell dial – AU $67,000 (TBC)
- Steel with silver sunrayed dial – AU $45,900
