LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari Bulgari Watch

by Sameera Gamage

Bulgari unveils a reinterpretation of the iconic model that was first launched in 1977!

One of Bulgari’s latest releases for LVMH Watch Week is the iconic Bulgari Bulgari Watch, now re-done to suit the modern watch world. While there is a total of four Bulgari Bulgari models being released, two 38mm automatic timepieces, and two smaller 26mm quartz models, this faithful rendition of the classic is what we are here for! This watch oozes class and elegance while having an iconic status due to its history.

The original 1977 Bulgari Bulgari Timepiece.

The Bulgari Bulgari was released during a time when classic watches were the popular model among collectors and avid watch fans. Imagined by Gianni Bulgari and designed by Gerald Genta, this watch had iconic status before it was even created. The timepiece has the classic 3-hander dial while also showcasing its Italian Heritage. The Bulgari Bulgari brings forth the creativity of the fashion world, something the Italians are well versed in.

Roman coins were the inspiration behind the iconic bezel engraving of the Bulgari Bulgari watch. Image reference: Royalmint.com

The iconic status of this watch first started with its bezel design. This unique bezel design took inspiration from ancient Rome. Roman coins have inscriptions around the edge of the coins, which was the design that was carried over to the bezel of the Bulgari Bulgari. With even spacing, the bezel carries the engraving of the watch’s name, Bulgari Bulgari, becoming one of the stand-out features of this timepiece and, in due time, making it an iconic design in the world of horology.

The all-new reinterpretation of the Bulgari Bulgari Watch.

Bulgari’s first release of this timepiece came with a yellow gold case, matched with a brown leather strap that complements the case nicely. With a black dial, yellow gold case and brown strap, the watch’s look was that of an aesthetic luxury watch, embedded in history as a classic. The original Bulgari Bulgari bezel is a design element that’s still being used today in Bulgari’s Bulgari Bulgari and Bulgari Aluminium collections.

Side profile of the all-new reinterpretation of the Bulgari Bulgari Watch.

For this year’s LVMH releases, Bulgari is bringing back this icon, with the same aesthetic design, but updated materials and movement. This reinterpretation of the 80’s model comes with an 38mm 18k yellow gold case, staying true to the original design. One noticeable difference between the two cases, however, is that the “Bulgari Bulgari” engraving on the 80’s was slightly more prominent. This could be due to deeper engraving of the letters compared to this modern rendition.

The all-new reinterpretation of the Bulgari Bulgari Watch.

The dial elements have been carried across to this new version as well, with the combination of baton hour indices and Arabic numerals for the 6 and 12 o’clock hour markers being retained. The difference now is that the modern version gets a date window (with the date wheel dial colour matched) and the central seconds hand. Colour-matching the date wheel to the dial is a great move that allows the date window to be more subtle and not throw the dial off symmetry/balance. On this latest modern take, we also get the inscription “Swiss Made” on either side of the 6 o’clock hour marker.

Open case back showing the BVL 191 Calibre movement and it’s Côtes de Genève finishing techniques.

This new Bulgari Bulgari comes with the brand’s modern BVL 191 calibre movement, which measures in at just 3.91mm thick! The movement performs at a high-frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH), ensuring a high level of accuracy on the watch. With this high-frequency, power reserve has been sacrificed slightly, with only 42 hours of power-reserve available. The watch does have an open case back, although not much of the movement can be seen. You are, however, treated to the Côtes de Genève pattern on the movement main plate and the oscillating weight.

Final Thoughts

Bulgari didn’t go overboard with this release and kept this “revival” timepiece true to its classic design. With a few subtle modern updates on the dial and a modern movement, this latest Bulgari Bulgari is a beautiful rendition of an iconic timepiece.

The 38mm case is thoughtfully done, as the modern watch market is opting for smaller case sizes. Considering this watch falls under the dress watch category, this makes even more sense, as it will sit nicely on the wrist while still carrying a huge presence thanks to the thick bezel with the “Bulgari Bulgari” engraving.

The 18k gold against the black dial also makes it stand out nicely, with clean and easy-to-read hour indices that make the dial simplistic in design. The 80’s Bulgari Bulgari was a classic design loved by many for these exact reasons. The watch strap on offer, however, for this modern rendition is a black alligator leather stitched strap, which differs from the original ’80s brown leather strap. While it’s only a colour variation, the brown strap gave a more exciting colour palette for the overall look of the watch. The black strap, however, gives more attention to the yellow-gold elements of the watch, which I think is the angle Bulgari is going for!

Reference: 103967

Specification

  • Case: 38mm diameter
  • Case Material: 18k white gold yellow gold
  • Dial: Black coloured dial
  • Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective Treatment
  • Water resistance: 50m (5 Bar)
  • Movement: BVL 191 calibre (3.80 mm thick)
  • Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
  • Power reserve: 42 hours
  • Bracelet: Black alligator leather strap

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $21,600

Availability: Non-limited. Available February 2024. For more information and to enquire, head to Bulgari.com.

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