Recap of Watches and Wonders 2023

by Sameera Gamage

With Watches and Wonders 2023 officially over, we can now look back and see some of the creations that came out in the world of Horology. There were some amazing timepieces that came out this year, from innovative to new designs and new looks, this year’s Watches and Wonders had it all. Saying this, it’s almost impossible to pick out all the watches that stood out and put them into an article, as there are so many great pieces (we would be reading a while!).

So instead, we present my favourite twelve picks that came out of this year’s Geneva show, from Rolex’s Daytona to Vacheron Constantin’s Retrograde update.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

The latest update to one of the most daring timepieces created in the 21st century. This newest creation, the Freak One, comes packed with technology while still remaining durable, easy to use, and designed to be worn as a daily.
The timepiece has been given a black DLC-coated titanium case with a rose gold 5N bezel with a matching dial interior. The three signature characteristics that made the Freak an icon is retained on this timepiece: no hands, no dial, and no crown. Ulysse Nardin is aiming to make the Freak One its flagship timepiece. You can read more about this latest FREAK creation here!

TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm

While TAG Heuer updated quite a few of their collections, one that stood out beautifully was the new colourways for the new Carrera Date 36mm.
The vibrant pink dial is just made to stand out. The added snailed finish on the dial makes it a stunning timepiece. TAG Heuer made a bold choice to break away from the traditional colours of black, blue, or white. A choice that we think will pay off for the brand. To see more of this pink dial Carrera Date plus more, click here!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

No list would be complete without seeing the latest update from Rolex. The Rolex Daytona is as emblematic as it gets in the world of watches. The entire range of Daytona’s got an update for this year’s Watches and Wonders.
While the update to a lot of the models in this collection seemed minor, especially aesthetically, what stood out was the 950 platinum edition. Rolex has, for the first time in a Daytona, given the timepiece an open case back. Only visible on the 950 platinum model, Rolex has given this new Daytona collection the new-generation calibre 4131 movement. Read more about this latest update to the Daytona here!

Hublot Square Bang Unico New Editions

2022 saw the release of a world-first, square-shaped Bang Unico from Hublot. This model has enjoyed a lot of success since its release, so why not bring it back with an impressive update?
This year Watches and Wonders saw Hublot unveil three new editions for their Square Bang Unico. Two models in white and black sapphire and an incredible Square Bang Unico in Sapphire. Hublot is one of the leaders of using sapphire materials in their timepiece, so it only makes sense to bring two impressive designs together. Read all about the new Square Bang Unico here!

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin, this year has been all about the retrograde update, with some existing collections getting this feature. One of these collections is the Overseas line.
What is already a stunning timepiece with that gorgeous blue dial, this all-new Overseas model gets the retrograde function. The retrograde display is a historical design for Vacheron Constantin, one that fits beautifully on this timepiece as is also accompanied by a moon phase indicator. Read more about this retrograde update for Vacheron’s Overseas model here!

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

I’ve always been a fan of Montblanc’s Geosphere timepiece. The fact that you get the northern and southern hemispheres on the dial spinning in sync with the day/24hr time was always interesting to see.
Now, Montblanc has given the 1858 Geosphere a new update. Montblanc introduced a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks. These mountains are all above 8000 feet and have barely any oxygen, which is the central theme in this new collection. Read more about this latest 1858 Geosphere creation from Montblanc here!

IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC has given their Ingenieur collection a newly engineered update, which references design codes from Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur SL (ref. 1832) from the 1970s.
The new collection comes with four models, with three models being made from stainless steel and the fourth given the titanium treatment. It takes an old classic and gives it modern design features while also improving wearability and performance. All the right ingredients to make it hit in the world of watchmaking. Read more about IWC’s newest Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection here!

Cartier Skeleton Collection

While this isn’t a singular watch, the entire Cartier Skeleton collection makes it into this list. For this year’s skeleton models update, Cartier is upgrading four new collections, each with their own iconic shape and design.
The Santos-Dumont, Pasha de Cartier, Santos de Cartier, and a grand complications pocket watch are getting aesthetic and mechanical upgrades. With a flawless balance between the movement and dial, Cartier has mastered the art of making skeleton watches, more so evident through this latest collection of skeleton timepieces. Read more about this collection here!

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black Ceramic

Following on from 2022’s update for the DEFY Skyline models with the new generation of seminal El Primero high-frequency calibre movements, 2023 sees the watches get a new aesthetic upgrade.
Two models in the DEFY Skyline line get a black ceramic makeover, with one of the models being the Skeleton. Crafted entirely in black ceramic, including the bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton is one of the standout pieces in Zeniths 2023 releases. To read more about this timepiece, click here.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Bi-colour

This year, Oris has updated the Aquis collection with new colours and materials. With the combination of the coloured rubber straps, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre Bi-colour for is one of the stand-outs in the collection.
This fun summer timepiece is offered in two dial colour variations (deep blue and forest green) and has an 18-carat fold finish on the edges of the bezel and matching gold details on the dial. Oh, and did we mention that it features Oris’s incredible 5-day power reserve Calibre 400 movement? If this piques your interest, click here to read more!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

This one for all the racing enthusiasts out there. The iconic and ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera has inspired this latest creation from the Swiss giant. With a fresh new dynamic styling, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph will be released with two dial variants: a black and blue dial.
The dial carries a lot of colour accents, with them being the gradient orange ring, a reference to racecar speedometers. Each variant of this new Carrera Chronograph has its own character; however, what’s clear is that both timepieces carry the Carrera icon into the next generation with ageless styling and high-quality movements. To find out more about this Carrera Chronograph update, click here.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm Collection

Another collection of timepieces that stood out was Baume & Mercier’s 39mm Riviera line. Released as part of the celebrations of Riviera’s 50th anniversary, this new collection is offered with different material and dial variations.
Available in either stainless steel with a smoked blue dial or smoked grey sapphire dial or titanium bezel with a smoked grey dial, this new Riviera collection features a beautiful wave transfer decoration on the dial. This latest update for the Riviera collection brings it forward to a new era while keeping all the essence of what makes this piece loved by watch aficionados. To read more about this collection, click here!

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