Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph

by Chamath Gamage
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As part of Vacheron Constantin’s Watches & Wonders 2022 releases, they are unveiling the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph in a whole new light. The Maison is going back to traditional watchmaking roots with the latest timepiece as they combine coloured dials with precious metals. 

Since 2006, the brand has been known for its Collection Excellence Platine, which was made up of specifically limited edition timepieces that had cases made from the noble metal; platinum. Following on from this same level of exclusivity, Vacheron Constantin has given the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph the platinum treatment, along with a beautiful salmon-coloured dial. 

Back in the old days of classical watchmaking, coloured dials were thought of as a symbol of elegance. Vacheron Constantin continues to uphold this symbol of elegance by creating timepieces with incredible attention to detail. The combination of using a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial is not something that hasn’t been done before by the brand. This combination forms an integral part of Vacheron Constantin’s heritage, as previous historic models had the same combination design. However, this combination is only reserved for watches that are produced in limited quantities and to be sold exclusively only through the brand’s boutiques. 

Design:

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph comes in a 43mm 950 Platinum case, with a water resistance of 30m. The chronograph pushers and crown are all made from 950 platinum. The timepiece carries a traditional design, as the name suggests. This means that several traditional design codes are used, which include the Dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track, and the stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back. 

Vacheron Constantin takes pride in making sure that the legibility of the dial and its functions is crystal clear. This is where the attention to detail comes in, making sure that the dial is not too cluttered and each element can be easy to read. For this latest release, the time indications and hour indices are done in white gold hands, which against the salmon dial stands out beautifully. The chronograph and date functions of the perpetual calendar are displayed by blued steel hands. 

The 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small constant seconds counter at 9 o’clock are down in a perfectly balanced symmetrical arrangement on the dial. The date counter at 6 o’clock is enlarged as it also showcases the moon phases on a platinum disc. The day, month, and leap year cycle readings can be found on apertures in the upper part of the dial, below the Vacheron Constantin logo. Along the outer edge of the dial, the tachymeter scale can be found. 

The attention to detail throughout the dial is immaculate. The salmon-coloured small seconds and chronograph subdials stand out from the main dial through a circular satin-brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The platinum disc which shows the moon phases also has raised moons that are polished and has stars that appear against a frosted background. Another fine detail that is quite important is the Maltese cross that is beneath the 12 o’clock hour-maker is made from 18k 5N pink gold, which has facets on each arm that is sandblasted on one side with the other side being polished. 

Movement:

The engine behind the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is Vacheron Constantin’s manual-winding Calibre 1142 QP. The Calibre 1142 QP is a chronograph and perpetual calendar movement and is thought of as a highly prized historical movement among watch collectors. The movement operates at a frequency of 3hz (21, 600 VpH) and can give out a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The attention to detail is not only on the dial on this watch. With the open case back, particular attention has been paid to the finishing of the movement to showcase this year’s theme for the brand. The finishings include circular-grained main plate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, straight-grained flanks, and hand-bevelled components. 

The timepiece comes with a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator strap as standard. With the strap being dark blue, it contrasts well against the salmon-coloured dial. Updating an iconic timepiece by giving it the brand’s ‘royal’ treatment, the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is a new classically inspired timepiece, now donning the platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial combination. The timepiece will be available in limited annual production and can be purchased exclusively through Vacheron Constantin boutiques. 

Reference: 5000T/000P-B975

Specification:

  • Case: 43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
  • Case Material: 950 platinum
  • Dial: Salmon-coloured opaline, 950 Platinum moon disc, 18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour and minute hands
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal and transparent sapphire crystal caseback
  • Water resistance:30 meters
  • Movement: 1142 QP, Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
  • Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
  • Strap: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales, 950 platinum folding clasp Polished half Maltese cross-shaped 

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $217,000.00 AUD

Availability: Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

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